Engine not working

[psycobone]

ok so i was racing my friend on the highway and i was on 5th gear at 160km/h and i wanted to down shift at 4th but i miss-shift and went on 2nd.
the car was still running but as soon as i put it in neutral the rpm goes all the way down and the car wants to shutoff.
i have to always give gas as soon as i start my car to be able to drive.
theres a small noise coming from the head but i dun know if i bent few vavles or is it something to do with the block.

can any 1 help me or tell me what could be the problem.

i have a turbo h22a.

thanks

[carps_accord]

racing on highways thats a .........could be a number of things, anything else that seems odd?

[batever]

Probably you bent some valves at least. At 160 kph/ 96 mph, in 2nd gear, that's way beyond redline and the stock valve return springs would not be able to close the valves fast enough to keep up with the pistons.

I bet your block is fine though.

Do a cylinder leakdown test.

[psycobone]

well i did a compression test and that seems to be fine.so i guess the best option would be just to swap the head or should i change the valves?

[batever]

I don't know which would be better. If you've got a spare head I'd say swap it in. It would probably be faster and you'd be back on the road sooner. But if not, I'd think doing the valves would be a cheaper choice. But since I've never actually swapped my own head or done the valves, you'll have to wait for someone more knowledgeable to answer that.


As to the compression figures:
I think you need to do a leakdown test, not just a regular compression test.

What compression figures did you get for each cylinder? And how fast does the compression go down on each one?

Assuming there's just slight valve damage, if all were damaged equally, there may be no diff. between the cylinders in time of leakdown. But if some were more damaged than others, the test would show a faster decrease of compression on the more damaged ones.

I'd be surprised if you completely escaped valve damage.but it might be slight, the pistons just barely contacting the valves as they retreated, so they don't quite seat properly And I'm sure you pushes the clutch in right away when it happened when you heard the RPMS go up into the stratosphere.

Beyond that, I'm going to stand aside as I've never pulled the head off an engine myself. I'm just responding based upon what I know about going past redline and the valve return springs. YOu won't really know until you pull the head.

[batever]

The two possibilities I can think of that would be causing the stallling behavior are (a) low compression in the cylinders causing low power output, or (b)increased friction in the pistons/cylinders due to overheating/lack of lubrication

Since you probably got on the clutch pedal right away when it happened, I don't think option (b) is what is going on. I'm betting it's just because of low power output due to low compression due to improper valve seating. The engine isn't putting out as much power at the given idle fuel setting, so it's bogging down and dropping below stall speed unless you give added gas.

I think.

[psycobone]

thanks for all the info..im bringing the car this week to my tuner/mechanic..he told me the same thing the only way to really know the problem will be to open the head.

i hope i didnt f**kup the block.

[wrichards2005]

thanks for all the info..im bringing the car this week to my tuner/mechanic..he told me the same thing the only way to really know the problem will be to open the head.

i hope i didnt f**kup the block.

Rip the head off let us know what you find out.