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    #16
    Originally posted by F22Chris View Post
    I’m slightly butt hurt because I’m a tech, and would like to think I don’t suck butt. Which makes me wonder.. If it’s so easy why are you asking? There’s trade school for this, so no. Odds are one can’t learn it in a few days.

    Charge the system with dye/freon before you evaluate the system - let it run & leak so you can detect the dye. Then just follow the steps I gave and you’ll have working A.C.

    The r12 thing doesn’t matter. But the amount of 134 you add will not be the same like previously stated.

    Yes you need to replace the expansion valve. I wouldn’t suggest it if it wasn’t needed.

    Ive literally given you most of the info you should need. Conversions, oil amounts, etc. The only thing I can’t give you is system pressures because I don’t know what the temperature is going to be whenever you decide to do this.

    And if you can’t figure out how to replace an expansion valve, idk what to tell you as my last post was the biggest spoon feed I’ve ever done.
    It's not that i don't trust techs opinions, i do. I just don't trust them with my car when they are more worried about getting it done and making money. It might take me alot longer than a tech who has done it 100 times but am sure i can get it done. The reason i ask about the r12 is cause the compressor is preloaded with the oil it needs. WHich is going to be more than needed in a r134a system. That is what i gather so far.

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      #17
      Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
      It is also technically illegal to drive 56 in a 55 and cross the street in an unmarked crosswalk.
      Yeah, I know. You'll do whatever you're comfortable with. Like I said, if it has all leaked out, then the initial evacuation to remove any remaining refrigerant is not a big issue, but you'll still need to pull a vacuum to determine if there is a leak prior to attempting to fill it.

      I have been able to charge a repaired system by rigging a T and shut off valve into the charge hose. I have a pump to pull a vacuum on the system before introducing the refrigerant, close the valve to isolate the system, make sure it holds vacuum, then refrigerant can be introduced.
      Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-14-2018, 12:34 AM.
      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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        #18
        Well when you put vacuum on the system to verify your fixes, all the oil & moisture will be sucked out of the system anyway.

        With r12 to r134 conversions, you’re going to use the exact same amount(not type) of oil, just different amounts of actual refrigerant. If it comes pre loaded with r12 compatible oil, you’re going to want that out of the system regardless as it will not mix with the 134. If it does have the r12 oil and you put r134 refrigerant in the system, you’re going to have to replace everything all over again because it doesn’t mix and will ruin the entire system. When they mix, it turns into a brown tar-like goop that clogs absolutely everything.

        Older r12 compatible o-rings will also deteriorate over time with 134. The expansion valve is behind the dash attached to the evaporator. Replacing that will be the most time consuming part of the job.

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          #19
          Originally posted by F22Chris View Post
          Well when you put vacuum on the system to verify your fixes, all the oil & moisture will be sucked out of the system anyway.

          With r12 to r134 conversions, you’re going to use the exact same amount(not type) of oil, just different amounts of actual refrigerant. If it comes pre loaded with r12 compatible oil, you’re going to want that out of the system regardless as it will not mix with the 134. If it does have the r12 oil and you put r134 refrigerant in the system, you’re going to have to replace everything all over again because it doesn’t mix and will ruin the entire system. When they mix, it turns into a brown tar-like goop that clogs absolutely everything.

          Older r12 compatible o-rings will also deteriorate over time with 134. The expansion valve is behind the dash attached to the evaporator. Replacing that will be the most time consuming part of the job.
          so i should also get a complete o-ring kit and plan on replacing alot of o-rings in system. Kit is only 10 bucks.

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            #20
            Correct. Do it once and be done, you know?

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              #21
              you can rent the vacuum pumps at autozone. I've still got R12 on my 93 EX coupe since it uses the Hadsys style compressor which was very difficult to find. Replaced mine back in 2013 when the car had about 225k on the chassis.

              A can of R12 is about 25 on craigslist, so its still accessible. I'd keep running it. Once its fixed properly, it'll last another 5-7 years with a new compressor. Nothing should leak out in that time anyways.

              member's ride thread
              93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
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                #22
                Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
                you can rent the vacuum pumps at autozone. I've still got R12 on my 93 EX coupe since it uses the Hadsys style compressor which was very difficult to find. Replaced mine back in 2013 when the car had about 225k on the chassis.

                A can of R12 is about 25 on craigslist, so its still accessible. I'd keep running it. Once its fixed properly, it'll last another 5-7 years with a new compressor. Nothing should leak out in that time anyways.
                It has already been converted for r134a. I know r12 is a bit colder but don't want to muddy the waters.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                  I just cost me $142 for an evacuate and recharge (with about 45 minutes in between so I could go home and replace the pressure switch). I believe it is technically illegal to deliberately release the Freon to the atmosphere, so the system should be evacuated prior to changing the compressor (unless it has all leaked out already).
                  Hey Fleetwood, you mentioned replacing the pressure switch. Can this be done without releasing pressure from the system? Also, the tech that filled my system said that it needs an R-134A specific pressure switch, but I don't see any advertised that way. Which one did you use?
                  My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                  Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                  My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                  Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

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                    #24
                    Pressure has to be released to replace the switch (if you don't, you'll release the pressure and lose the Freon when you remove the switch). I believe I used a used OEM Honda switch that I had in my parts collection.
                    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                      #25
                      Ok that's what I figured. Ty for the info.
                      My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                      Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                      My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                      Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

                      Comment

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