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    suspension refresher questions

    hi, i have a 90 lx that i am planning on replacing alot of susp. parts (upper, lower bj,tie-rod, shocks/struts springs ect). my question is about bushings. mainly poly vs rubber. i understand the handling benefits of a poly bushing. i also appreciate the ride quality on rubber. my question is how much of a difference would there be in going all poly? are there curtain bushings that would greatly benefit from poly bushings? are there areas that i can keep rubber bushings to help ride quality? can i mix poly & rubber bushings at all with out throwing things out of wack? im planning on replacing my sway bar end links tomorow, and i have the choice between rubber and poly. any input would be greatly appreciated.

    p.s. im still running stock power if that will make a difference
    "Yeah. I'm a tough rich pimp with a gun, a fast enzo, and a huge dick. Don't fuck with me."

    #2
    Originally posted by bizzyboi View Post
    hi, i have a 90 lx that i am planning on replacing alot of susp. parts (upper, lower bj,tie-rod, shocks/struts springs ect). my question is about bushings. mainly poly vs rubber. i understand the handling benefits of a poly bushing. i also appreciate the ride quality on rubber. my question is how much of a difference would there be in going all poly? are there curtain bushings that would greatly benefit from poly bushings? are there areas that i can keep rubber bushings to help ride quality? can i mix poly & rubber bushings at all with out throwing things out of wack? im planning on replacing my sway bar end links tomorow, and i have the choice between rubber and poly. any input would be greatly appreciated.

    p.s. im still running stock power if that will make a difference
    i dont think there is a difference in ride quality, one of the smoothest riding cb's ive ever been in is full poly...

    if anything it helps with the sloppy feel and would give a more solid feel which to me= quality

    full poly would be best for sure.


    smoke tires, not drugs.

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      #3
      Not all polyurethane used for suspension bushes is of the same hardness, some is almost as hard as nylon, some is almost as soft as as rubber...

      I think the most important bushes (to replace with harder poly items) are the anti roll bar (swaybar) bushes, both the 'D' bushes and the end link bushes (but more so the 'D' bushes since these are more highly loaded than the end link bushes). This will directly increase roll stiffness, especially the initial roll stiffness at lighter lateral accelerations (i.e. at / shortly after turn-in / change of direction) where a soft bushing accounts for a large % of the deflection as seen at each end of the ARB (this is less of an issue once the bushes have become more fully compressed with greater loads passing through the ARB, though harder bushes will have reduced roll motion when both lesser and greater weight transfer is occurring).

      Next I'd be thinking about replacing the bushes in the lower front wishbones, since these are probably the most highly loaded bushes in the whole suspension, and stiffer bushes will help to lessen geometry changes as loads rise and fall.

      Keep in mind that the stiffer the bush material the more likely it may be that it might require more frequent lubrication to avoid squeaks and possible binding and / or wear. Avoid pre-loading rotating poly bushes, i.e. they should never fit tightly where they are supposed to articulate. If the bush material is being significantly queezed between the bush housing and the articulating shaft it will be quite likely to at least partially seize.
      Last edited by johnl; 07-05-2009, 02:26 AM.
      Regards from Oz,
      John.

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        #4


        This is the poly kit I used on my car. I was initially scared of installing it for fear that the ride might be too stiff or "creak" as poly tends to do. This kit was neither and though is somewhat labor intensive, it was a great upgrade to the car. The car is much more confident on the road not only in curves, but also in a straight line. The car feels "new" again. I have experienced no negatives whatsoever with this poly kit and would do it again if I had to choose between replacing them with rubber or poly. Just make sure you throughly lube the poly up and you won't have to worry about squeaks and creaks.

        Benefits:
        -Cheap mod
        -Car feels "new" again
        -Inspires a more confident feel
        -Will never need to replace them again

        Cons:
        -labor intensive but if you are going to do it, might as well do it with poly and never worry about it again
        "This is a jaded bunch. To gain notice, you have to challenge conventional wisdom, test assumptions, and ignore the naysayers."

        FS Part out thread koni/skunk2 suspension, jdm pole, HID retrofit, Tanabe exhaust
        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...10#post2119010

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          #5
          I have a ES poly master kit on my car and yes the ride isn't the best even with stock springs/Koin shocks and stock tires. Dose it make any sound nothing at all. Did it help out getting my alignment back in to shape yes it did. Dose it handle better yes.

          My personal feeling about it is if your going for something that you want to feel the difference. Than yes buy the ES poly kit

          If your just driving around in a DD like me than no you shouldn't buy the ES poly Master Kit. I would recommend the Poly sway bar links.

          Overall its fine for me the only thing is you need to avoid the potholes as you can feel them when you go over it.

          Yeah the labor is going to suck. You might as well rip everything off the front suspension and replace it. That's what i did. My car was out for a good 2 months because i was lazy. I would say the total cost to do ES poly bushings is going to cost a lot

          ES kit $110
          New parts $X (Shocks, tie rod, BJ's)
          Tools $X (Honda BJ remover rental)
          Bushing press at Napa Auto Parts $30 per bushing and $35 a BJ. that's 4 bushings in the lower arm and 2 Bj's if you don't use the Honda BJ rental from Autozone.
          New bolts from Honda $X
          Alignment at sears $70

          Mine came out more because i got a lot of other stuff. Bearings, rotor, pads, axles, radiator, fluid, ect.
          Last edited by Chirs190E16v; 07-06-2009, 01:24 PM.

          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2620526 190E Mercedes Benz
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3065882 Accord Under major Repairs

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            #6
            i went through and replaced all of my joints/bearings and at the same time i installed a full ES bushing kit. it is amazing at how solid they make the car feel... it doesnt necessarily make the ride "better" it just stiffens up the car a LOT!! some of them can be a bitch to install but when youre reassembling if you install the majority of ES bushings that you can, youll love the difference it makes. ES is nice and stiff, but not too stiff!


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
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              #7
              I'm pretty sure the ES kit doesn't come with rear upper control arm bushings.

              The Prothane kit comes with those bushings, but costs an additional hundred bucks. If you want to do a completely complete job, you might be have to go with prothane's kit and shell out the extra hundred bucks.


              Also, I don't think either kit comes with the rear trailing arm bushing. Those alone will run in the neighborhood of 100 bucks. If you only have 200 bucks to spend, the rear trailing arm bushings are probably going to be more worthwhile than the rear upper control arm bushings in the prothane kit.

              Click my signature and go to about halfway down on the second page. We did a bushing change on our CRX.

              Comment


                #8
                Yeah the labor is going to suck. You might as well rip everything off the front suspension and replace it. That's what i did. My car was out for a good 2 months because i was lazy. I would say the total cost to do ES poly bushings is going to cost a lot

                ES kit $110
                New parts $X (Shocks, tie rod, BJ's)
                Tools $X (Honda BJ remover rental)
                Bushing press at Napa Auto Parts $30 per bushing and $35 a BJ. that's 4 bushings in the lower arm and 2 Bj's if you don't use the Honda BJ rental from Autozone.
                New bolts from Honda $X
                Alignment at sears $70

                Mine came out more because i got a lot of other stuff. Bearings, rotor, pads, axles, radiator, fluid, ect.
                when i replaced my clutch, this is how my cost skyrocketed, running back to buy tools, part, and such. im preparred this time. im building a press from a old car jack and some box bars i have. ill just have to eat the alighnment cost, someone offers a lifetime alighnment deal. and im not afraid to put the hammer down on a bj. but yes i will be replacing everything.


                seeing as everyone likes the poly bushings, and there isnt much to dislike against them besides maybe a few squeaks.

                ive read your"the next episode" 's thread on the crx. you guys choose the prothane bushes over the other. will the sleeves that come with that kit make any differance??
                "Yeah. I'm a tough rich pimp with a gun, a fast enzo, and a huge dick. Don't fuck with me."

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you're referring to the sleeves in the bushings, I'm pretty sure both the ES kit and the Prothane kit uses them.

                  It's not hard to press them in. If you have a friend with a press, then that's a win. If not, you could buy one from harbor freight, or similar, for about 100 bucks.

                  If you need a more detailed explanation of how to install 'em, ask away.

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                    #10
                    Glad I found this thread... Unfortunately the items I was hoping to find aren't listed on ESP's site. While I did find the Rear Upper & Lower Coil Spring Isolators still looking for the other version.

                    Anyone know a source for the upper and lower rear spring isolators that wrap around the coils?
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