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Need help mechanical performance enhancement

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    Need help mechanical performance enhancement

    I have a 93 cb7 got it and my first Honda has a f22a I was curious what are the best most efficient performance upgrades besides a turbo or wet nitrous. I've heard h23 intake ive heard head swaps I don't have the money for dyno testing or getting a head ported. So bolt on upgrades I don't want well it could work or I'd say so I want for sure answers and help. Any threads on motor performance the specifications of my motor or what upgrades for my transmission I as told j can only run tage one with stock tranny is this true I'm full of questions no answers. Answer in forum below or private message me. Appreciate it alot in advance!!!

    #2
    A1 or a6 or a4?
    sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

    Comment


      #3
      Just search it. Also, the run on sentence made this really hard to read..

      Best and most cost efficient way to make power is an H swap. A healthy, cammed H swap with decent bolt ons can get around 200hp.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by F22Chris View Post
        Best and most cost efficient way to make power is an H swap. A healthy, cammed H swap with decent bolt ons can get around 200hp.
        X2, seriously best CB powertrain upgrade. H22A with Prelude trans and a good tune livens up the car so much.
        '93 H22A 5SPD SE - MRT - DIY-Turbo Sizing

        Comment


          #5
          I agree with the H22 swap as well. The F22A has a LOT of potential, but you have to do a fair amount of work to make it worthwhile. The H22A brings the CB7 to life in bone stock form, and it has plenty of performance options if you want to modify it. It's not terribly cheap, but it's well worth it. Get a good engine, and your car will be as reliable and efficient as stock, while having enough power to truly be fun.

          If you just want to squeeze a little more power out of your F22A, read the sticky threads at the top of this section. Be careful, though. You can spend a good amount of time bolting parts to your F22A, only to find that you spent H22A money for half the power gain.

          Nitrous is part-time. Superchargers require custom fabrication. Turbos require forged internals if you want the engine to last more than a few weeks (months if you're lucky.)






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            #6
            I'm in the process of a H23A1 swap which may be another option, you may get lucky like me and find one for a good price. It's a marginally easier swap than the H22 with a bit more torque but way less top end. I went this route because I found one locally for cheap.

            Advantages are: direct bolt-in, uses the same alternator and exhaust manifold, only needs one wire run for the knock sensor. Uses 87 octane fuel.

            Drawbacks are a 40hp deficit compared to the H22 (160 hp compared to 200 hp) but still a good boost compared to the stock F22 engine.

            Another option: If you have the A1 engine (DX/LX) get the A4/A6 exhaust header from an EX vehicle. Good for 5 hp, cheap, easy to find. Get the dual runner intake from an EX vehicle, good for another 5-10 hp. Get a 262/272 cam grind and a tune - allegedly good for 10-15% HP boost. Would put you up near the H23 as long as your existing engine is healthy.
            1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust



            Stock F22A6
            VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk

            H23A1 powered
            NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
            CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY

            Comment


              #7
              As far as h series swaps go, if your going to put in the effort/time into swapping a motor in your car you would be better off going straight h22. I say this having done the h23a1 swap before. You have to run a wire for the knock sensor for an h23a1, so while your doing the wiring, just go ahead and run a couple more wires for the v-tec on an h22. You also will need a different ECU to run the h23a1, so once again just get one for the h22. More than likely you will want to run new headers on your shiny new motor transplant, so get some for the h22. Most of the stuff you would have to do to swap an h23a1 into our cars you have to do also do for an h22, you can put forth a LITTLE bit more work to get an h22 in and you will be much happier. My h23a1 had stage 2 cams, full valve train makeover, I re-sleeved the block, new pistons, tuned on 91 octane, etc... and it still made less hp than a stock h22.... so you be the judge of what would be a better swap.

              P.S. H23a1 aftermarket parts are not as common as h22 parts.

              P.P.S. on HMO an OBD-1 H22a is $1199, and a H23a3 (same as H23a1 I believe) is $950. Is $249 worth the significant power difference and parts availability?


              If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

              I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

              Comment


                #8
                Only one header on these engines (just busting your balls... I totally agree with everything else!)

                And yeah... when you look at the prices of the two engines, $250 for 40hp is a good deal!






                Comment


                  #9
                  Definitely agree, if the difference is only $250 then go with the H22. Hell, if the total cost difference is anything less than $1000 I would go for the H22.

                  I was just throwing the H23A1 option out there in case there was one available.

                  Originally posted by thumping_accord View Post
                  My h23a1 had stage 2 cams, full valve train makeover, I re-sleeved the block, new pistons, tuned on 91 octane, etc... and it still made less hp than a stock h22.... so you be the judge of what would be a better swap.
                  Wouldn't a H23 tuned for high RPM produce more peak power than a H22, given the extra displacement?

                  Without VTEC the low RPM performance would obviously suffer but I am surprised that your H23 didn't make more power than it did.
                  1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust



                  Stock F22A6
                  VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk

                  H23A1 powered
                  NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
                  CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    Only one header on these engines (just busting your balls... I totally agree with everything else!)
                    I even proof read my response and still missed that! hahaha

                    Originally posted by masospaghetti View Post
                    Wouldn't a H23 tuned for high RPM produce more peak power than a H22, given the extra displacement?

                    Without VTEC the low RPM performance would obviously suffer but I am surprised that your H23 didn't make more power than it did.
                    My H23a1 would start losing power at about 6k rpm's, I think the valves would start to float around there. I didn't think H23A1s were high rpm motors.... maybe mine was just more of a turd than I thought lol. It was pretty torque-y last time it was dyno'd (after the re-sleeve) it made over 148 ft/lbs and but not much more HP (I think 156).


                    If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

                    I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The H22A head is different, its compression ratio is higher, and it has VTEC (which allows for a broader powerband.) The H23A1 would require some pretty significant modifications to surpass the H22A's peak output, and it won't be as useful as the H22A's output, due to the comparatively narrow powerband. .1L isn't really THAT big a difference.

                      You can get the best of both worlds with a JDM H23A (VTEC, not the equivalent to our H23A1.) It's basically a 2.3L H22A. OBD2 only, unfortunately, which means there are no OBD1 equivalent ECUs that you can use. You'd need a custom tune to run one, which isn't something I'm a big fan of. I prefer to use factory tuned ECUs whenever possible.






                      Comment

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