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Heavy shaking under acceleration

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    Heavy shaking under acceleration

    My cb7 was shaking like crazy, so I replaced the motor mounts and it has drastically stopped the shaking but it allowed me to realize that there was more too it. Im thinking it's a bad cv axle but I'm not quite sure.i can feel when giving it gas that there's resistance to t, like the wheels are wanting to come up off the ground with each rotation, and it's stealing power from me. When I put in the clutch the feeling stops, even if I'm just letting go of the gas or going down hill. But if I'm climbing up a hill the problem is the worse. And over the duration of driving it gets worse. Then sometime it won't be so bad until I drive it for a while! What some things it could be. And how may I find out for sure? The seal for the cv axle shaft looks like it may not be in place perfectly, but I couldn't say for sure

    #2
    My bet would be axles.

    My car shook pretty bad, put in new axles and problem fixed.

    Comment


      #3
      Good luck! It could definitely be the axles.

      But, I had this same issue when my tie-rods were going out. Check everything before you replace parts blindly.

      Comment


        #4
        definitely axles. i had one so bad it would shake change out of the ashtray.
        COUPE K24

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          #5
          Stock engine and transmission?

          Axles are a definite possibility. Shocks are another. Wheel balance is another, if it never goes away.






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            #6
            Like Deev said, I would look at the wheel balancing as well. If you swap a tire from the driver's side
            to the passenger's side do you still have the same effect? Unless maybe all the tires are unbalanced?
            Keep Pushing..

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              #7
              If it shakes under acceleration or climbing, but not on coasting. It is likely a cv joint. If it shakes more under load when turning one way than the other, that's also a good cv joint problem indicator.

              If you jack it up (jack stands) get under the car and have someone rotate the wheels. You are likely to hear the cv joints clicking or clunking.

              This is DIY-able work but it involves several steps that are likely to be significant challenges for a first timer (removing the axel nut, disassembling much of the suspension on one side, getting the new axle back into the transmission). When I did it I had taken the suspension apart many times already for various reasons and it still took hours. As long as you've got it apart it's a good time to replace the wheel bearing. If you're doing that one one side, might as well do the other. If your rotors are getting to end of life, they are a pain to replace but would be easier now. It adds up...
              ==========================
              1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
              1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
              Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
              Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
              M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
              Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

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                #8
                Solved

                the cv axle was bent to shit, and the downpipe would bang on the chassis.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I love when people edit their post after replies are made.....
                  Last edited by oni_cb7; 11-03-2017, 03:59 PM.

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                    #10






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                      #11
                      I’m impressed by the details that you’ve on this web site
                      dragon ball super

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