Well, after the shiny microsopic shavings in my first oil change after the H23A swap, even with the Moroso pan (raced at Laguna Seca), I am set on the accusump for the extra level of protection.
Canton Racing provides this selection guide to help you make your choices. Here is what I am sure I am purchasing based on the guide:
- 2 Qt. Accusump
- 10AN Hose and Fittings
- 2 Utilitarian Mounting Clamps
The two things I am not sure about are the plumbing and the valve setup.
1. For plumbing, I want to ask you guys if there is a 1/2" NPT or at least a 3/8' NPT fitting unused somewhere on the JDM H block. Directly plumbing this into the block seems like the easiest method overall, especially when I consider the new oil capacity of the motor. Since the H blocks already have an adapter for their mini oil cooler, I am not so sure another adapter on top of that would be wise. The other options they mention are T tapping the accusump into remote oil filter and oil cooler pluming, which would obviously cost the most, be the most work, and make determining the new oil capacity at oil changes the most difficult. To keep a reserve of oil cool, I could just install the accusump in the cockpit rather than the engine bay, and it would then release a reserve of cooler oil into the block in hard cornering situations.
2. I am even more unsure about the valve choice, and here is why. I need more info on this, but I found Ghost once writing on here what our warm idle and 3k rpm oil pressures are:
- Warm idle: 10psi
- 3k rpm: 50psi
I'm guessing the oil pressure is even higher near the redline. This large fluctuation makes valve choice really difficult. If I use a manual ball valve, then I would just open it up before startup to prime the block, then close it after I start the car, which would allow oil to recharge through the one-way valve back into the accusump. I would then open the valve once on the track to allow discharges and then have to close it again once leaving the track to avoid excess windage while not racing. If I use their fancy electronic valve with the pressure switch, I am not even sure which one to buy, since they say one thing on the selection guide (go with 25 psi but turn off after start when at idle and turn on when entering the track) but another entirely on their blog post on the website (use the one that matches operating psi and shut valve off at idle). The only positive I see to the fancy valve is the option to have an indicator light wired to the dash so I can see when the accusump is discharging.
I guess there is also the need to properly set the precharge of air in the accusump. Should that be set at whatever the psi level is somewhere in the middle of the revs, such as at 5k rpms?
Some of you are probably wondering why I see this as a necessity. Well, last time I went to the track (only time on new H23A motor), the car had trouble engaging vtec during cornering when it was actually in the proper rev range for vtec. I know I am not running a pressure switch, but doesn't the solenoid still check for proper oil pressure before engaging vtec?
Canton Racing provides this selection guide to help you make your choices. Here is what I am sure I am purchasing based on the guide:
- 2 Qt. Accusump
- 10AN Hose and Fittings
- 2 Utilitarian Mounting Clamps
The two things I am not sure about are the plumbing and the valve setup.
1. For plumbing, I want to ask you guys if there is a 1/2" NPT or at least a 3/8' NPT fitting unused somewhere on the JDM H block. Directly plumbing this into the block seems like the easiest method overall, especially when I consider the new oil capacity of the motor. Since the H blocks already have an adapter for their mini oil cooler, I am not so sure another adapter on top of that would be wise. The other options they mention are T tapping the accusump into remote oil filter and oil cooler pluming, which would obviously cost the most, be the most work, and make determining the new oil capacity at oil changes the most difficult. To keep a reserve of oil cool, I could just install the accusump in the cockpit rather than the engine bay, and it would then release a reserve of cooler oil into the block in hard cornering situations.
2. I am even more unsure about the valve choice, and here is why. I need more info on this, but I found Ghost once writing on here what our warm idle and 3k rpm oil pressures are:
- Warm idle: 10psi
- 3k rpm: 50psi
I'm guessing the oil pressure is even higher near the redline. This large fluctuation makes valve choice really difficult. If I use a manual ball valve, then I would just open it up before startup to prime the block, then close it after I start the car, which would allow oil to recharge through the one-way valve back into the accusump. I would then open the valve once on the track to allow discharges and then have to close it again once leaving the track to avoid excess windage while not racing. If I use their fancy electronic valve with the pressure switch, I am not even sure which one to buy, since they say one thing on the selection guide (go with 25 psi but turn off after start when at idle and turn on when entering the track) but another entirely on their blog post on the website (use the one that matches operating psi and shut valve off at idle). The only positive I see to the fancy valve is the option to have an indicator light wired to the dash so I can see when the accusump is discharging.
I guess there is also the need to properly set the precharge of air in the accusump. Should that be set at whatever the psi level is somewhere in the middle of the revs, such as at 5k rpms?
Some of you are probably wondering why I see this as a necessity. Well, last time I went to the track (only time on new H23A motor), the car had trouble engaging vtec during cornering when it was actually in the proper rev range for vtec. I know I am not running a pressure switch, but doesn't the solenoid still check for proper oil pressure before engaging vtec?
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