Car shuts off when stopping only ;/

[FAMOUS_GODSON]

Sorry about the delay guys i did end up changing the IACV as you guys recommended but still having the same issue and have not checked the ELD because i'm not sure how to check it or where it is located. I did also change the throttle body from the junkyard but ended up returning it because didn't fix the issue plus mine was in better condition .Too bad i ended up cleaning it for no reason ;/

I forgot to mention in the beginning of this thread that i used seafoam before i cleaned the intake passage and i think this is probably what caused the car to start stalling when getting to a stop light. The car itself got worst now i cant really drive at all because it just wants to stall once i step on the gas pedal or reach about a foot or two of road. I'm thinking of having a mechanic check it out but i feel like it just might be a simple sensor. I had seen this guy in Youtube having similar issue with his 94-96 Accord. He had explained that he ended up changing all different parts like me and nothing worked until he changed The ECU. What do you guys think???

[deevergote]

The ECU is definitely a potential culprit. Do you know anyone local with a CB7 that might let you borrow their ECU? Ideally you’ll want a PT6 from an automatic 92-93 EX (or any SE). A PT3 from a lesser and/or manual model would work, but wouldn’t be 100% correct. You’d need to drive around a bit on a new ECU to make sure it gets into closed loop mode.

ELD replacement would require replacing the fuse box under the hood. It’s integrated.
I don’t see how it would cause stalling, but electrical stuff is my weakest area. Raf99 usually knows what he’s talking about!

[Fleetw00d]

How is the coolant level? If it is low, or not bled correctly, it can affect how the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) interacts with the IACV.

[FAMOUS_GODSON]

deevergote, thanks for breaking down the ECU compatibility on the CB models and the ELD location. I was thinking of testing the ECU from my 93 Ex CB but wasn't sure was gonna work since being a manual. I'm definitely picking myself a junkyard ECU. If that doesn't fix it next step would be changing the ELD luckily i do have a spare complete fuse box that belong to a Wagon cb just need to find it in my garage. Hopefully Raf's and your advice gets my cb working good again. I'll shall let u guys know what happens ;]

[FAMOUS_GODSON]

fleetw00d, the coolant level seems fine the only issue i had was when driving freeway the temperature gauge would go down to cold so i figured the thermostat needed replacement. When replacing i realize that the thermostat was completely missing the previous owner only placed the thermostat rubber gasket. I placed a new thermostat but i did not do a coolant flush. Since your the second person to mention to me possible air in coolant definitely gonna change it out. Thanks

[deevergote]

deevergote, thanks for breaking down the ECU compatibility on the CB models and the ELD location. I was thinking of testing the ECU from my 93 Ex CB but wasn't sure was gonna work since being a manual. I'm definitely picking myself a junkyard ECU. If that doesn't fix it next step would be changing the ELD luckily i do have a spare complete fuse box that belong to a Wagon cb just need to find it in my garage. Hopefully Raf's and your advice gets my cb working good again. I'll shall let u guys know what happens ;]

Since the TCU (transmission computer) is separate from the ECU in the CB, you should be able to use the manual ECU for troubleshooting. It won’t be perfect, but it should work. If it throws the same codes after driving long enough to get to operating temperature, then your issues aren’t ECU related.

[FAMOUS_GODSON]

Well it's been a while now with the car parked and i finally replaced the ECU with an exact one from ebay. When comparing them I realize the old ECU had burn a chipped or something. It literally melted. I believed the new ECU was going to fix the stalling problem but it did not. It does feel better and can drive the car but still shuts off when coming to a stop. It seems the rpms can’t keep up when slowing down. The rpms take to long to down shift down then it just shuts off. ;/ I do get low idle to so I decided to check one last thing before I have somebody check it. TPS I checked it and was not calibrated to 0.50 when close so I decided to calibrated with a multimeter to 0.50 when close then when full open would only read 4.37 not 4.50 so I decided to replace it with a new one from autozone and had the same issue it would read 4.33 when full open. Does anyone know what the issue can be?

[FAMOUS_GODSON]

[Fleetw00d]

If you can baby it to an idle, what happens if you disconnect the electrical connector from the IACV? The engine should just barely idle in this condition at about 500-550 rpm (That's the first big mark on the tach above zero). Did you mess with the idle screw in the throttle body at all?

Did you clean the EGR valve and use a new gasket when you reinstalled it.

[G. Wiffington]

Yeah I want to kind of reflect what fleetw00d is saying.. maybe you should
try to reset the base idle.

Here is the link:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=146239

[amaramartin]

Good luck!!

You must check battery cables.