G23 Set up in my car is leaking..

[TheProfessional]

I've been hounding the internet for roughly a week since I got my 2000 accord, which remarkably came with a running G23 motor (F23 block with a Manual Version F20B head). Unfortunately the thing leaks down the front of the block underneath the head.

I'm guessing where those two galleys we're supposed to be plugged, their not. Needless to say the car can't be driven under those circumstance (Not for long anyway).
Does anyone know anything about this hybrid set up? Would plumbing the head much like one would do on an lsvtec/b20vtec set up remedy the oil leak???

Posting off my phone, pics will be up shortly.

[TheProfessional]

[Bunta]

There is a thread somewhere (I just looked but couldn't find it right off the bat) about the difficulties with G-swaps and the issues you are experiencing are addressed. Further than that I'd try to get a picture of each of the block/head surfaces and try to figure out where the coolant and oil passages don't line up. It may be that the headgasket is bad aswell.

* the simple answer may be to get a complete head and sell/trade that DOHC head to someone who can actually use it.*

[TheProfessional]

Get a complete SOHC HEAD? nah...

I actually like the concept of this build. Ive never done one and can only say I've seen two, and they weren't even running just being built.

Any insight on as to whether I can plumb it or plug the passages would do me some severe justice right now, I do thank you for what input you have given me.. contemplating popping the head off to see what's what.

[Rilas]

Most likely they didn't get the head plugged up properly on the extra oil drain holes. The only bad part is that your going to have to at least take the valve cover off and possibly see what was done. Though most likely your pulling the head at this point. Also it looks like they used a JDM block as it's just an F23A which means it has a bit higher compression than the standard F23Ax blocks that come from the USDM. Should help with the F20B head.

[TheProfessional]

Most likely they didn't get the head plugged up properly on the extra oil drain holes. The only bad part is that your going to have to at least take the valve cover off and possibly see what was done. Though most likely your pulling the head at this point. Also it looks like they used a JDM block as it's just an F23A which means it has a bit higher compression than the standard F23Ax blocks that come from the USDM. Should help with the F20B head.

This is the kinda insight I need, thank you. I came to terms with having to pull the head at least. Any idea what I'd have to use to plug those extra holes???

[Bunta]

Do do it the right way you'd have to have the block and or head welded and the holes re-drilled in the correct spot so that both the head and block line up. Seems like a lot of work in order to have "DOHC" or "real vtec".

[TheProfessional]

Do do it the right way you'd have to have the block and or head welded and the holes re-drilled in the correct spot so that both the head and block line up. Seems like a lot of work in order to have "DOHC" or "real vtec".

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...tuner-2478560/

Yea, ball game.

The nice thing about it is that where as the h22 uses 8 drainage holes the f series uses only 6. And the two extra holee can be seen and felt with the head on block.

I just called the machine shop, to insert two plugs and cut flush then resurface the head= $200.

Slap everything back together along with the Kaizenspeed kit I have and it's done. No leaks. Vtec and a boost ready application.

[Rilas]

Here is another solution and possibly drop in from the top without taking the head off. I've never seen these before but some google searching turned up some good results.


Injector Nation H/F Hybrid Drain Plugs

[TheProfessional]

Here is another solution and possibly drop in from the top without taking the head off. I've never seen these before but some google searching turned up some good results.


Injector Nation H/F Hybrid Drain Plugs

Dude ur so clutch for this.

[TheProfessional]

Head has to come off.

Snatched off valve cover and u can see the two open drainages from up top between cylinders 2&3.

[Grumpys93]

Make sure to replace the head studs when you pull the head. I recommend ARP and use the h22a head studs. Glad to see there are still some Frankenstein builds floating around.

Keep us posted on the build.

[Jarrett]

There is a thread somewhere (I just looked but couldn't find it right off the bat) about the difficulties with G-swaps and the issues you are experiencing are addressed.

This one?

[Bunta]

This one?

That was the one but the OP has a solution to his problem (hopefully).

[TheProfessional]

This one?

Not for nothing I find that thread to be one of the Pinnacle problems today not just in car building but I life todaym. There is always someone willing to stand on a soap box and beat down the spirit of optimism and going outside the box, or against the grain.

Individuality is what makes life grand, I'd hate to live in a world where everybody is doing the same thing and doesn't have aspirations to try something else and take the risk, and if they fail try again or if they succeed, spread that wealth of knowledge onto someone else eager to learn.

That thread could have been very informative without the bashing and declaration of idiocy to anyone who attempts it. I have 2 Euro R blocks, 1 JDM SIR long block a Type S long block I could easily slap into this thing right now.......AND TAKE THE EASY WAY.

But for what? It's a g23 set up. I can count on one hand how many guys around here are running one, it actually performs VERY WELL outside an oil leak (Honestly pulls pretty well down low through the mid range, I'd imagine with vtec engaging it would continue to do so), is a pretty good motor so far.

I'm going to yank the head, plug the drains I see, change the head gasket (maybe Dremel the holes open where coolant and such go so it lines up better), drop in some ARP Head studs and possibly, possibly drop my Jun's in with my adjustable cam gears, apply the Balance shaft eliminator kit and slap it all back together and enjoy this set up.

Definitely going to boost it in the future.

Cheers to the free thinker who attempted it and sold me the car you forgetful bloke, I'm gonna finish what ya started.