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need some expert advice on my swap! H22A1, USDM P13, bogs and bucks

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    #31
    Good on the injectors. I was going to suggest that a couple days ago but my reply got lost in the 3g network lol.

    I’ve used injector cleaning machines and basically you might be able to get them unstuck by force opening them. Use a ground test light or power probe, start the car and jump the ground of the injector. This will force it open allowing a lot of fuel to wash through it because it’s 100% duty cycle. Don’t hold it open for more than half a second or so. And you can do rapid on off on off to try to shake the injector insides. I’ve had success with this at 18V for really stuck injectors but regular 12v is fine.

    Tcw-3 oil is also an amazing injector cleaner when coupled with 90% rubbing alcohol. That’s what we used in the machine.

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      #32
      Update, still no go

      I replaced the injectors with rebuit ones, I'm still having a lumpy idle issue/lots of black smoke. Could the EGR system be the issue? I'm going to try a different manifold on Friday. Jeez idk what else it could be at this point. Have replaced EVERYTHING. Time to try a manifold that hopefully isn't clogged up in its egr passages ?

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        #33
        Video of how it &quot;runs&quot; currently

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7jqJaCkPwQ

        I just filmed it and posted it to youtube on my phone so the quality is kinda poor but its plain to see it aint running good

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          #34
          Did you confirm that you're getting current to the injectors? Might be electrical. Either they aren't being grounded at the ECU or the resistor box is faulty.

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            #35
            can I use any F22 resistor box? Ill grab one from the wrecker. I picked up an H22A4 lower manifold and cleaned it up, gonna put on a block off plate and my current upper plenum to see if any difference is made. the old intake has severely ceased and rounded EGR bolts so I just grabbed a set of runners off a 97 lude for $30

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              #36
              Originally posted by RabbittCB7 View Post
              still gots to figure out vtec. I have A4 and D6 running to the solenoid, bypassing the pressure switch, still presenting the code. If I apply 12v to the solenoid, it clicks normally. So WTH?
              When using the P13, try not connecting the wire from D6, and just use the wire from A4 to the solenoid. See if you get a code 22, or even if the code 21 goes away. Also, do you have a solenoid that has a bolt in place of the pressure switch?
              *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
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              F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
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              MRT
              Selling on Ebay!

              15.10 @ 90.42mph
              The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
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                #37
                another possible misfire cause eliminated, still misfiring

                Originally posted by af_1132 View Post
                See if you get a code 22, or even if the code 21 goes away.
                I went out there today and changed the runners out for one with clean egr ports and a block off plate , installed it, gaskets and seals all look good, no vaccum leaks, MAP, TPS, IACV, IAT and injectors all plugged in, still runs like in the video.

                Also, I tried disconnecting D6 and connected A4 to solenoid, reset ECU and no code 22, just the 21 still. Theres a pressure switch in place, I haven't used a bolt in its place. When the solenoid was installed it was cleaned and regasketed, and it clicks if given 12v.

                I think all I have left to try is starting from scratch with a fresh F22 engine harness from the wrecker, opening it all up and labeling every wire to make sure they're all in the same spot. But I've tried unplugging the important ones and I get the corresponding code afterwards, so I honestly feel like I did okay with my auto trans f22 harness on a 5spd H22A1 … but who knows... I feel like I'm trapped in a nightmare lol I need this car to run , I have used every bit of my mechanical ability to figure this out and no matter what I try it doesn't fix the misfire. And I'm the guy in town that a lot of people call to figure out their cars, with a number of swaps and builds and crazy things I've done before. I'm trying to not let this cloud my passion for CB7's , its gotta be something silly I did wrong but I've basically gone over the build from start to finish over and over again now and nothing I have done has actually solved the misfire … Someones had to have run in to this problem before

                Edit: If code 21 is constantly present, and code 22 doesn't occur with the pressure switch unplugged, and the engine misses and hesistates bad, is there a chance that both the PT3 and P13 ECU's are no good? I took the covers off and the circuitry looks perfectly fine, clean and undamaged. As for the TCU can that remain unplugged as its no longer an automatic?
                Last edited by RabbittCB7; 07-11-2019, 12:14 AM. Reason: addition

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                  #38
                  could it be that the fuel pump is weak or FPR is bad? All four injectors work, spark at all four, compression in all four, no leaks. Ive basically redone everything multiple times and it just wont idle properly. No codes, except 21 when using P13. You are the CB7 wizards please help !

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                    #39
                    Did you ever do a compression test? What map sensor are you running? I am not familiar with auto to 5spd so I can’t help you there. Do you have a known good p13 you can get your hands on?
                    ~Nick~
                    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                      #40
                      I think its an accord map sensor im not too sure, instead of being mounted to the fire wall I have it dangling from a short vaccum line to the throttle body, and plugged in. Compression tests ~185 in each cylinder I don't have any other ECU to try, just the P13 I got online and the PT3 that was in the car already

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                        #41
                        I guess I'll just check the timing for the 500th time . . . Are H22's known to sometimes be hard to time, eg. off by half a tooth on the crank pulley?

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                          #42
                          the timing is spot on, as it was before. I thought the Fuel Injector Resistor was bad, took it home, tested it a second time but its within spec . . . Which is odd because I swear it read 0 when I checked it earlier. So that's not it either. . .

                          WTF else could cause it to run like that? I'm getting so depressed.

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                            #43
                            Where on the throttle body? I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back side by the brake booster vacuum. It’s hard to say, I wish you could easily get another p13 just to test. You have timing, you have spark, fuel, and compression. There isn’t much left when it comes to getting the car running. I do notice in the video you have a lot of wires all over the place in the Ecu area as well as a lot of vacuum lines plugged with bolts. Did you do anything else to the car besides 5 spd conversion or the motor swap?
                            ~Nick~
                            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                              Where on the throttle body? I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back side by the brake booster vacuum. It’s hard to say, I wish you could easily get another p13 just to test. You have timing, you have spark, fuel, and compression. There isn’t much left when it comes to getting the car running. I do notice in the video you have a lot of wires all over the place in the Ecu area as well as a lot of vacuum lines plugged with bolts. Did you do anything else to the car besides 5 spd conversion or the motor swap?
                              there is a lot of spare parts / extra wire on the floor of the front of the car cause all in the back is stuff I had to cram after I lost my garage lol the two connectors by the ECU for the TCM are unplugged, auto shifter still plugged in and set to the park position so I can get my key out / enable starter.

                              I got rid of that black box with the MAP and purge valve system for some reason along with the charcoal cannister, IAB is not hooked up and I plan on deleting the plate when its all running. Cruise control is also gone, so that left a few vac lines blank and I just had to loop them back to the IM so they don't leak, or put a bolt in it. EGR has a block-off plate, all the coolant sensors are plugged in to the right locations as well as IAT, TPS, IAC, VSS? So that just leaves the A/T connectors, like the two gray ones for shift solenoids and the one green one for idk what , but I jumpered the green one when I did the 5spd swap and that fixed my no spark years back with the F22.

                              I am pretty sure that just leaves VTEC and O2 wiring. A4 and D6 both go to the solenoid, still have code 21 never saw a code 22 yet. I un-did my O2 lengthening cause I got a code 43 (Fuel supply system) and thought maybe I added too much resistance with an non-engineered harness extension so I ended up peeling all the loom off the accord engine harness so I could get my O2 plug to just barely reach its new location, only to find that both connectors for my O2 sensor are male ends , so idk how im gonna plug it in.

                              I cant think of anything else, and I'm thinking about this car 24 / 7 . . . I've spent my last six months to a year staring dumbfoundedly at my engine compartment, and I'm still out there almost every day trying to get it to run normal. I appreciate you thinking through this with me, I hope I find a solution soon cause things went south with the county and it looks like my car has to be moved, preferably under its own terms . . . since I am out of time and its got nowhere to go , so I don't have very long to figure out why its not running. at this point I can close my eyes and picture every last detail of a CB7 and it just refuses to accept the fact that it's got an absolutely mint engine

                              Edit: I also deleted the FIV under the throttle body, to rule out it leaking vaccum and also attempting to make my bay look cleaner
                              Last edited by RabbittCB7; 07-14-2019, 11:17 PM. Reason: addition

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                                Where on the throttle body? I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back side
                                I hooked it up to the nipple on the throttle body, next to the throttle cable. Cause shouldn't it have no vaccum at idle, and vaccum under load to adjust the fuel mixture accordingly? I've tried it on just the back of the plenum too, it ran poorly either way

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