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Old 04-30-2020, 08:27 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
With the radio serial number, your Honda dealer can give you the code. They used to want to see proof of ownership or see the radio itself. My local dealer parts guys know me well enough that all I have to do is call with the serial number.
I will check that out. So I need the Vin or something? Maybe a sticker on the unit itself? My local Honda parts dealer isn't the best. But it would be pretty cool to get it working.
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:04 PM   #122
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I might be able to get the code for you if that doesn't work out...
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Old 05-01-2020, 08:21 AM   #123
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There is a sticker on the head unit itself. This is the number the Honda dealer needs to give you the code. If you can't get it, I certainly can for you. I've been working with my Honda parts guys for 10 years. Hell they now just cut me keys if I bring them a VIN number. No questions asked, because they trust that I'm not stealing cars.
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Old 05-01-2020, 10:40 PM   #124
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Same here. Most of the local Honda dealer's parts guys know my phone number when I call. Assuming the radio is the original in the car, they should be able to provide the code given the VIN, otherwise, as Rilas said, there is a serial number on the radio itself and given that they can supply the code. I go ahead and write the code on the radio (who's gonna steal it fhese days?). The cars with a coded radio came with a card in the owner's manual with the code on it.

Be careful entering it. If you screw up three times, you then have to leave the radio powered for 20 minutes (if I remember correctly) or more before you can try again.
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Old 05-01-2020, 10:45 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
I might be able to get the code for you if that doesn't work out...
Awesome! Thank you! I will get to this in exactly one week as that's my next day off.

My local Honda dealership has a lacking parts department in my experience. I called a week ago to get an A/C line. They said it was unavailable and no ETA from the manufacturer. Like they couldn't get it. I went on Hondapartsnow and had it to me in 3 days. So this may be very helpful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
There is a sticker on the head unit itself. This is the number the Honda dealer needs to give you the code. If you can't get it, I certainly can for you. I've been working with my Honda parts guys for 10 years. Hell they now just cut me keys if I bring them a VIN number. No questions asked, because they trust that I'm not stealing cars.
Again, super awesome. I really appreciate it! I wish I had a relationship with my Honda parts department like that. Lol

I take it I'll need the code everytime I disconnect the batter. Correct?
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Old 05-11-2020, 09:48 PM   #126
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I have the 1993 parts car ready to leave the garage and this 1992 (MRT car) ready to pull in and begin swapping parts.

Parts I have removed to swap :

- Headliner, visors and dome light assy
- Rear seat, three piece set
- Front seats w/ mounting bolt covers
- Rear deck cover/carpet piece w/ speaker assys
- MATCHING KEY - Door lock cylinders, trunk lock cylinder,
ignition lock/ cylinder assy, glove box lock/ latch. With OEM master key (Probably my favorite)
- Hood. Already swapped
- Driver side filler panel
- Driver side inner and outer tail light Assy
- Antenna mast Assy
- Hood prop rod clip
- Rear bumper impact bar
- Rear bumper cover
- Grill assy (not gold but in better condition than current)
- OEM fog light complete Assy

I believe this is a complete list.

I have to find a tire in 205/70R15 for the 1993 parts car in order to get it out of my garage. That's what someone put on it and one is so dry rotted it wont hold air. Hopefully I find a cheap used tire.
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Old 05-11-2020, 09:51 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
Awesome! Thank you! I will get to this in exactly one week as that's my next day off.

My local Honda dealership has a lacking parts department in my experience. I called a week ago to get an A/C line. They said it was unavailable and no ETA from the manufacturer. Like they couldn't get it. I went on Hondapartsnow and had it to me in 3 days. So this may be very helpful.



Again, super awesome. I really appreciate it! I wish I had a relationship with my Honda parts department like that. Lol

I take it I'll need the code everytime I disconnect the battery. Correct?
Yes, you will need the code any time power to the radio is interrupted. If I remember correctly, there are two power wires, one is switched by the ignition, the other has power all the time to maintain station memory settings. This second one is on the 7.5 amp fuse that you pull in the under hood box to reset the ECM.
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:28 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Yes, you will need the code any time power to the radio is interrupted. If I remember correctly, there are two power wires, one is switched by the ignition, the other has power all the time to maintain station memory settings. This second one is on the 7.5 amp fuse that you pull in the under hood box to reset the ECM.
Ok awesome! Thanks again! Still have yet to remove it.
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Old 05-20-2020, 04:52 PM   #129
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I changed the rear bumper cover, impact bar, driver side tail lights and driver side filler panel. The accident that happened about a year and a half ago somehow didn't damage the chassis. It now looks as if it never happened.

This car always had a stumble on acceleration for a very narrow portion of the lower rpm range from like 1500-1600rpm. It would stumble slightly. When I bought the car in 2018 it had a CEL for the EGR valve. I know it was driven like that for sometime. I installed a new EGR valve and the CEL went away. Throughout all the maintenance the stumble never changed. I suspected it to be something related to EGR. I attempted to set base Ignition timing and the timing marks jumped all over the place. So I set it the best I could assuming a worn timing belt was causing the timing to jump around. I was correct. I changed the timing components as it so desperately needed. The stumble still persisted. It wasn't until about a week ago that I rechecked the ignition timing. (My bad, I know.) The ignition timing was way retarded. It was probably around 0* BDC. I had to look up about an inch or an inch and a quarter to see the 15* mark. Anyhow, setting the ignition timing properly fixed the stumble completely.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:15 AM   #130
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I really wish I could find another picture hosting provider. Anyhow,

Yesterday I replaced the high side refrigerant line coming from the evaporator. The fitting on the front of the car was super difficult to get disconnected. However I was able to pull -30hg of vacuum pretty quickly and it held spot on for an hour. I installed a new drier with 1/3oz of ester w/uv dye and away it went. I'm going to add more oil since I know it lost some. So an oil injector is on the aquire list.

So now it has A/C. It actually had a 30* differential. I think I got it this time.
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Old 05-26-2020, 08:58 PM   #131
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After letting the A/C run a little more I still see a some bubbles in the sight glass. So it's a bit low still. Which also shows true on the temp/ pressure via the gauges. I acquired a little more R12. No leaks though. I love UV dye! So we're good there. It was cold already so with a couple more ounces of R12 it should be really cold.

It now has really nice front seats and a driver seat with the factory arm rest. Much more comfortable!

I used a heat gun, a very small flat head screw driver and patience to remove the grille emblem from the donor car. I installed it with a form of somewhat soft epoxy into the gold grille. So that's done.

The doors, trunk and glove box lock cylinders all match and work great now. Only thing left is to swap the ignition lock cylinder and it will have a full matching set with a factory original master key.

I fixed the trunk cable so now it opens from inside the car via the handle. The cable simply came out of the latch assembly. So I squeezed the bracket that holds the cable in place ever so slightly with vise grips. This was a nice improvement.

The previous owner really messed up the antenna assembly. I didn't know about this. So I'm going to remove the whole assembly and install a factory OEM delete plug into the antenna hole location and install an amplified compact antenna inside the vehicle likely under the rear deck.

I purchased some led bulbs from super bright LEDs. I ordered just the lights that are above the cluster that light up the needles. I'm not big on LEDs in the cluster however I replaced them not long ago and they already failed. I used Eiko or Sylvania or something that I thought was of reasonable quality. I didn't want to have to do it again. So that's why I went with LEDs this time.

Rear seat with sides, headliner, antenna ordeal, ingition lock assembly, installation of fog lights, another drain and fill with DW-1 on the trans (been about 18 months since I did the 3x or 4x drain and fill) and an inspection of the TCU are next. I have a "kit" of high quality replacement TCU components that I've had for a while incase I find anything.
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Old 05-26-2020, 10:00 PM   #132
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I might have enough parts to put together a working power antenna it you're interested.
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Old 05-27-2020, 10:57 AM   #133
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I might have enough parts to put together a working power antenna it you're interested.
I really appreciate the offer! Unfortunately they covered up some sheet metal damage with a rubber washer under the antenna along with severely damaging the threads and leaving the drain tube unplugged.

The delete plug is a way of eliminating everything cheaply, stopping the damage and not really dealing with it.
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Old 05-27-2020, 11:27 AM   #134
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Last bit of progress on this for the immediate future. It's going to be a couple weeks until I get back on this.

So I noticed some squealing when in motion and turning. Primarily when turning to the right at low speeds. The squealing is coming from the driver side front wheel area and is a light rotational contact type squeal with a light resonance. Giving the strong impression that it's a thin piece of metal coming in contact with something rotational.

So, in a nut shell I jacked the car up and discovered the wheel bearing has play in it. I can put a finger on one of the 10mm 12 point bolts on the back side and move the wheel and tire around and easily tell that the 10mm 12pt bolt is staying stationary while the rest of the bearing has slop. I'm looking at a replacement hub and bearing assembly already assembled. Like a WJB for about $50.

Lastly, I got the rear seat in and also changed out the driver side rear seatbelt assembly. It looks so much better! I now have all seats swapped over.

I changed out the entire ignition assembly. The car had an aftermarket unit in it with an aftermarket key. But now it has an all OEM ignition assembly that's keyed alike to everything else. I only have two lock cylinders left but will worry about them later in the year. The back seat release and the gas door/ trunk release.

I also did a drain and fill on the trans.

Getting things done! Hope to be complete by about the 23rd of June so I can focus on moving.
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Old 05-29-2020, 07:53 AM   #135
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I'm able to post pictures again.

Here is the 92 Ex of this MRT in it's current state.

2020-05-29_06-32-46 by jcarden405, on Flickr

This next picture was taken a little over a month ago. What we call The Skank is on the left when it had the fogs. Since removed and going into the 92 Ex we call Cheap Bastard.

The Skank will get it's own MRT. More on that later.

20200529_074003 by jcarden405, on Flickr

And here's a good one I spoke about back in February I think it was. Whenever I did the timing belt and everything related.

I'll leave you with that. I'm about 5 minutes from getting off work and going to hit the garage again here for the next couple hours.

20200226_205708 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:05 PM   #136
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Since I hit on the timing belt with a hand and timing cover full of balance shaft belt teeth I'll start there.

This picture speaks for itself. Pretty rough. Worst I've seen. I never inspected the belt when I bought the car. I thought I did but that was my 93 Lx a month prior. And I also took the P.O's word that he had done it recently. So believing him on top of it, it didn't help it come across my mind. Whoops! All good though.

There is more to this that you will have to see in my YT channel when the video is edited. Wait until you see the balance shaft belt.

20200226_205457 by jcarden405, on Flickr

A little behind the scenes while filming the timing belt and THE FIRST A/C video. The one I have 5 hours of footage filming where I replaced or removed literally every A/C component but two hard lines.

20200222_151240 by jcarden405, on Flickr


Three and a half days straight working non stop from 11am or 12am until anywhere between 10pm and 1am. This was the arsenal.

20200222_151202 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:08 PM   #137
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Next I think I did this project. The rear brakes. New everything but hoses.

Not much to mention. Stainless rotor screws. Brembo OE rotors and as I recall Wagner thermoquiet pads. I forgot who made the calipers and rails but it's in this MRT.

GOPR0509_1586648038199 by jcarden405, on Flickr


GOPR0491_1586648018627 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:17 PM   #138
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It finally got the rear bumper fixed. I bought The Skank or the 93 Ex for parts initially. Swapped many many things. Spent the last month doing it. The rear bumper and impact bar was one thing I swapped. I did a lot of work with the paint prior. It cleaned up nice. Not perfect. But way better. I did a mild refurb on the impact bar too.


Below is The Skank. This pic taken while prepping the rear bumper for Cheap Bastard (this MRT car),
20200510_043901 by jcarden405, on Flickr

Cool picture. When everything was shut down. This is the MRT car of course. The 92. Skank = 93. Cheap Bastard = 92 (this car). They look so similar other than wheels and condition it can be hard to tell them apart in some pics.

2020-05-29_01-52-32 by jcarden405, on Flickr

First day out with the new rear bumper.

2020-05-29_01-52-11 by jcarden405, on Flickr

The hood's were swapped. Mcquires scratch X 2.0 and about an hour of elbow grease helped a lot.

I also used a small heat gun and removed the grille emblem from the "parts car". I use some clear plastic specific JB Weld brand 2 part epoxy to install it into the gold grille.

20200530_060808 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:36 PM   #139
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Another project (there were many) was evacuating the R12 that was leaking and replacing said line.

Everything that needed removed to uninstall the leaking line and get the replacement line in. Of course, it was one of the two hardlines I left and flushed in the car back in February.

20200522_115745 by jcarden405, on Flickr

I love ester with uv dye. Supercool synthetic ester with uv dye ftw. This was our line. Obviously.

20200522_120534 by jcarden405, on Flickr

Old out. New in.

20200522_124717 by jcarden405, on Flickr

Vacuum pulled down to -30hg with my Amazon cheapo special 1/4 horsepower 3.0 cfm pump. What I got. :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SZ4QFW0..._kax0EbFMWNYC1
Works great and I'm an HVAC guy in an industrial high rise building. It worked great for this small job.

Took 2 to 3 mins to achieve -30hg. Held -29.5hg after 25 mins so that was good enough. Pulled vacuum for 40 mins. Didn't need to probably but definitely boiled all water out.

20200522_133108 by jcarden405, on Flickr


Prior to pulling vacuum. But you get the gist of it. Second $130 28oz bottle of R12 refrigerant. Still have around 20oz.

IMG_20200522_172946_804 by jcarden405, on Flickr

And it's super cold now. 38*F discharge w/ 83*F ambient. Best A/C I've ever had.
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:49 PM   #140
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Last one, at least for now. I had to save a good one for last.

In this thread I explained running the car without a radiator for several days. This should give the visual on that. No issues what so ever. Got to operating temperature 3x faster. But the fans and cold ambient air did the work as for heat transfer and it worked flawlessly.

Post in reference: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...0&postcount=92

I don't recommend if it's not needed. But in a pinch with optimal conditions... sure!

Polish_20200222_153450936 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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