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:shrug:H23A VTEC with manual swap on 93 CB7 LX auto, wiring questions.

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    :shrug:H23A VTEC with manual swap on 93 CB7 LX auto, wiring questions.

    Ok here is the deal... I am swapping my F22 auto for the bigger better H23A VTEC with either a JDM H22A or JDM F20B manual tranny. I've got the manual tranny swap pieces already (lines, linkage, pedals, manual center console, just need a manual cluster). I have been between here and honda-tech.com reading a LOT... like most of my spare time. I know what I need to do but I still have a couple of questions which I hope can be answered here on this thread. Here are my questions... Should I buy the H23A VTEC with the OBD-II harness? And if so, can I just get a OBD-II to OBD-I conversion harness to use a P28 ECU with hondata s300 (I am eventually supercharging it... Thanx cincy90h22 for the inspiration) and the H23A VTEC harness. I know that the H23A VTEC never came manual, only FF and AWD, this is where the dilemma arises. Should I scrap the idea of using the H23A VTEC harness and use the F22 one that's already on my car?
    supercharged CB7 thread
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=190356

    #2
    You should use the F22A harness that came in your car attached to your current F22A. The OBD-2 H23A VTEC harness is useless to you. An OBD-2 to OBD-1 harness adapter is for OBD-2 vehicles because of the different wiring in the cabin that attaches to the ECU, not the engine wiring harness. You will need to convert the engine to OBD-1 with fuel injectors (or eliminate the resistor box in your engine bay), an OBD-1 H22/H23 plenum (F22A6 plenum will work in a pinch but won't perform as well) and USDM H22/H23 OBD-1 distributor (or convert the distributor on the H23A VTEC to external coil with all of the wiring and internals from your F22A distributor.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #3
      This is my plan about doing the ignition... http://www.hondata.com/hondata_coil_pack_retrofit.html
      What do you think?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
        You should use the F22A harness that came in your car attached to your current F22A. The OBD-2 H23A VTEC harness is useless to you. An OBD-2 to OBD-1 harness adapter is for OBD-2 vehicles because of the different wiring in the cabin that attaches to the ECU, not the engine wiring harness. You will need to convert the engine to OBD-1 with fuel injectors (or eliminate the resistor box in your engine bay), an OBD-1 H22/H23 plenum (F22A6 plenum will work in a pinch but won't perform as well) and USDM H22/H23 OBD-1 distributor (or convert the distributor on the H23A VTEC to external coil with all of the wiring and internals from your F22A distributor.
        Thank you for the insight. I am going to do some research on which of the two plenum is the cheaper versus better choice, hopefully they're one and the same.

        Comment


          #5
          If you do individual coil packs then I would expect a full write-up detailing their performance and why you feel that a factory engine necessitated such an upgrade. I would also ask that it be very factual and give examples of why the cheaper options were, in fact, not options in this case.

          Cliff notes:
          It's too expensive, you don't need it and you likely wouldn't buy it if it was worth it.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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            #6
            The OBD-I ignition is the cheaper way to do the swap and, I will do the OBD-I ignition to get the car running and tuned... the coil-over-plug retrofit would be an upgrade to the rotary type ignition and it looks very good IMO. When I get it I will post pix and probably a video of the upgrade. On the first post here I mention that eventually the car will get a supercharger... the conversion to coilpack is to have a direct spark and a very clean set-up.

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              #7
              I know why coil-on-plug ignitions exist, but I don't think it's necessary. It's commonly saud that the factory ignition system with OEM plug wires and sprak plugs suited to the application they're in (OEM build, wild N/A, boosted, nitrous) will be sufficient up to nearly 500hp. There are much better things you could spend your money on at your desired power levels.
              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                #8
                Ok, if I understand you well, what you are saying is, that there is no benefit in upgrading your ignition system (either way, rotor or coilpack) but right before the 500 hp point..?
                Last edited by Apexbender; 08-13-2012, 02:17 PM. Reason: re-read my post, screwed up something.

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                  #9
                  Imo the coil over plug is a bit overkill for a stock motor. I know people with supercharged hondas that still have a dizzy setup and experience no spark issues at all. And yes the money could be spent in better areas. But if you want it just because it looks cool and hey look what I got factor go for it. Its your money not mine. I would would just spen it on better things. And a h22 and h23 intake probably run the same price depended on who you get it from. and its about 20 bucks for one from most JY.

                  STANCE|WORKS

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                    #10
                    I most definitely understand the point of the prica over the benefit. $400 for four wires and a little box! I am having second thoughts!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It's a waste i've seen numerous 400+whp hondas on the stock ignition sytem. Not to mention it's not nearly as reliable in the long run, spend your money else where.

                      02 Crv
                      02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
                      92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
                      Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

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                        #12
                        What do you mean "not nearly as reliable"?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The stock ignition system was very well designed, and has worked nearly flawlessly for most people for the past 20 years. You don't need to upgrade it. Anything "custom" you do could end up biting you in the ass. Nothing will be as well engineered for that application as the stock system. The stock ignition system has seen over 500whp with no problems... and 500whp is far more than you'd need for a street car. Putting that power to the ground would be difficult.

                          Don't forget that you'll need mounts and a mount bracket for the 5 speed conversion. You can't just bolt it in.

                          IMO, I'd avoid the H23A. It's a good engine, but it's OBD2 ONLY... and there is no OBD1 equivalent ECU. That means you'll have to get a custom tune for it, which may or may not be good... or you'd have to convert your entire car to OBD2 (which I don't believe anyone on this forum has ever done, as it's senseless.) I would get an OBD1 H22A. That .1L really isn't that much of a difference, and the H22A will be far easier to install. Plus, all H22A parts are easily purchased at any autoparts store, since we had that engine in the US market. Don't let yourself be fooled into thinking the H23A is better because it's bigger... or that anyone will think you're special for having it. It's really nothing special, and it's not all that uncommon anymore, either.






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                            #14
                            Thanks for the "shake" I am going with the JDM H22A now... I keep changing my mind. I think is the best route, do to all the discussions on here. I am going the OBD-I route all the way. $845.00 for the engine and transmission for $695.00 non-lsd or an lsd equipped one for $1145.00 sounds like a good price to me... What do you think?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I think you're buying from a shady dealer, and are likely to get a paperweight on a pallet delivered to your door... those prices are far too low for anything worthwhile. Do what you want, but I strongly suggest buying from www.hmotorsonline.com. It's the only place I would trust (and it's where I got my own H22A in 2003...)






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