Time to do brakes

[SleepyG]

Time to do my brakes guys.

I was wondering if I go with a wagon/v6 front set up if I can still run my SE 15" rims with stickie weights inside? Doesnt look like theres that much extra clearance there as is? Maybe 1/2"-3/4".

Open to suggestions on what to do but ROH is probly too expensive for me, my mechanic is hella cheap so labour of working with HOR is no big deal. V6 rotors are cheap and I am sure the calipers are not hard to find cheap.

I have a DA 40/40 prop. valve to put in since I converted to disc without one.

Should I just get decent rotors and pads or is the 11.1" rotor really worth it?

[Phate]

Time to do my brakes guys.

I was wondering if I go with a wagon/v6 front set up if I can still run my SE 15" rims with stickie weights inside? Doesnt look like theres that much extra clearance there as is? Maybe 1/2"-3/4".

Open to suggestions on what to do but ROH is probly too expensive for me, my mechanic is hella cheap so labour of working with HOR is no big deal. V6 rotors are cheap and I am sure the calipers are not hard to find cheap.

I have a DA 40/40 prop. valve to put in since I converted to disc without one.

Should I just get decent rotors and pads or is the 11.1" rotor really worth it?

I'm personally going ROH in the near future. Look up the parts list, if you are doing a straight ROH conversion, there aren't that many to get. Getting the CL hubs from advance on discount (it helps having friends that work there), the wheel bearings are still good, and I'll be replacing a balljoint or two while I'm in there (likely with a camber kit). Just getting stock CL rotors and some decent pads for now. When I kill those, I'll upgrade to the 11.1's and V6 calipers when it's easy to work on the brakes. That's the nice thing about going ROH, it makes it really easy to upgrade later on.

[HondaGuy1212]

Before I had plans of selling my car, I was planning on upgrading my brakes too. I bought locally '96 V6 25T calipers for like $25. All I needed were 11.1'' wagon/V6 rotors and the pads. Do the upgrade. It's a cheap brake upgrade, but yields better results than just upgrading your pads on the stock setup.

My suggestion is to go with Hawk pads or EBC. Don't cheap out on the pads by going to the auto parts store for the lifetimes. They will eat through the rotor in no time.

[Phate]

Don't cheap out on the pads by going to the auto parts store for the lifetimes. They will eat through the rotor in no time.

My eventual plan is to go with EBC's and a set of lifetime 11.1 rotors. That way, I can absolutely destroy a set of them either autocrossing, hooning on backroads, or if I ever decide to track the car, and then just get new brakes for free and have extremely little downtime.

My current rotors are scary to look at. They've been cooked many times to the point where I've boiled the fluid. The worst was when I killed them on the mountain roads in harriman state park at the meet in april. Fun as hell though, until the car only stopped half as hard.

[TomQuick]

When I did the clutch, I had to rip all that shit apart anyway, and with 190K on the bearings, it was time.

I went ahead with the ROH conversion. I'm sure it can be done for less than I paid, but I'm very happy with the results. I used the hubs and bearings from Tas, and picked up calipers (preloaded) and rotors for the Prelude Vtec, 11 inch 25 mm thick. I have 17" wheels, so fitment wasn't an issue. The car stops on a dime, really.


After hitting the deer back in March, much of my front bumper cover was ripped off. I bolted the two ends onto the fenders with 3/8" bolts and washers, and had about 6 - 8 of the plastic push in clips holding the top of it onto the support. It wasn't a fantastic job, but it was on there pretty good.

A few weeks ago, some little girl had her dog break off the leash, and it ran out in front of me. I was doing about 25 or so. I jumped on the brakes pretty hard, stopped the car so fast it ripped both sides of the bumper cover where the bolts went though it, and popped all the plastic push in clips out, and the whole bumper cover jumped off the front of the car, and landed on the road

It kind of sucked, but funny that the car could stop that fast. I have been very happy with the performance of the bigger front brakes. I'd say that if you can fit the 11's it is well worth it. The work to do it yourself isn't that hard either, that part of the job was a walk in the park compared to pulling the transmission out!

[SleepyG]

Apparently JDM SiR's ran the HOR V6 set up. And apparently wagon/V6/'93+ Lude calipers are all the same. Just the brackets that can be slightly different. I don't have a budget for ROH and I want bigger rotors now.

I think it's tight but I believe I have clerance with my wheels....I hope. Seems to be a good 1/2" of room in there and thats about how much more the new caliper will stick out. I mean V6 and wagons run 15"s so why can't I???? At the very least I may need to run a small spacer I guess.

I still run Hawk HPS pads right now and they have chewed up my front Brembo's pretty good after 2 years plus 6 months of that time spent parked. I would get them again they are good.

[TomQuick]

The only bit you really need to do the conversion is the rotors (gotta buy new ones anyway) and the hubs. If you are going to the bigger rotors, you'll need to get new calipers anyway, and matching brackets, so that won't be an added expense. Scour the JY's and see if you can't score a set of the Acura hubs for cheap.

[HondaGuy1212]

Apparently JDM SiR's ran the HOR V6 set up. And apparently wagon/V6/'93+ Lude calipers are all the same. Just the brackets that can be slightly different. I don't have a budget for ROH and I want bigger rotors now.

I think it's tight but I believe I have clerance with my wheels....I hope. Seems to be a good 1/2" of room in there and thats about how much more the new caliper will stick out. I mean V6 and wagons run 15"s so why can't I???? At the very least I may need to run a small spacer I guess.

I still run Hawk HPS pads right now and they have chewed up my front Brembo's pretty good after 2 years plus 6 months of that time spent parked. I would get them again they are good.

Correct. The calipers themselves are the same, but the brackets are different.

23T= Prelude VTEC
25T=Wagon/V6
28T= Legend Dual piston/NSX.

That being said, if you are running a 23T bracket, you would need to mount a 23MM rotor to match the thickness. Don't worry, you will have clearance since the V6 had 15'' wheels also.

[TomQuick]

Prelude Vtec are 25mm, that is what I am running on my car. When I got the brakes, one had the 23T bracket, and the other had the 25T. The 23T wouldn't clear the Prelude Vtec rotor which is a 25mm (well, it WILL clear with careful shimming, but it is a very close fit).

[SleepyG]

So now I am more leaning towards ROH and leaving my calipers as is for now. Makes my options more open in the future, and with the brembo sport slotted rotors/hawk pads I plan to get I am sure it will stop just fine.

My current pads are Hawk HPS and I notice they chew the rotors up pretty good(composite). They did stop the car crazy fast when I installed em but I am wondering if Hawk performance ceramics would be more gentle or last longer? I know they make less dust, but likely wont have quite the same grab as the HPS.

[TomQuick]

I think you are right that the ceramics will have less bite. They are a bit harder, so they last longer, and make a bit less dust, but that means a bit less grip.

[Velocifero]

Apparently JDM SiR's ran the HOR V6 set up.

How do you this?

Prelude Vtec are 25mm, that is what I am running on my car. When I got the brakes, one had the 23T bracket, and the other had the 25T. The 23T wouldn't clear the Prelude Vtec rotor which is a 25mm (well, it WILL clear with careful shimming, but it is a very close fit).

That is false my quick friend. Prelude VTECs 92-01 are 23mm. I know because I have 4th gen Prelude VTEC rotors up front and Brembo's catalog states this as well: http://bremboaftermarket.com/En/Car_...chIsFront=True

23T SHOULD have fit the 23mm. Actually 23T are 25mm wide, 25T 27mm wide etc.

[SleepyG]

I didnt wanna say anything but I though Ludes where 23T.

That Quebec guy with the manual V6 told me that SiR's run the same set up. He could be wrong too but I would believe it.

I can get V6 brembo sport slotted for $65 a pair! The 2.3CL and Prelude VTEc ones are $190 -$220.

My OEM size would be $90(brembo sport), but a plain brembo blank for a 2.3CL is just $45 each.


Decisions decisions...

Option 1) Brembo sport slotted V6 rotors/calipers but stay HOR
2) ROH conversion and Brembo blank 2.3CL rotors and new bearings

Both are within $100 cost of each other so what u guys think is better?

Do '98 3.0CL's come with the same rotors a V6 does but ROH? If so that will be tempting.

[TomQuick]

Velo, you may well be right, however I didn't just pull that out of my ass

I purchased my rotors, and calipers from Autozone, and got my information from their website.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2_178857_2708_

That page shows a picture of the rotor, with measurements. According to the pic, the overall thickness of the rotor, from rear surface to the front of the hat is 47.1mm, and the thickness from the front of the hat to the front surface of the rotor is 22.9mm. The difference then would be the thickness of the rotor, and it is 24.2mm. I would call that 25mm, not 23mm. Of course, those measurements could be wrong, but when I tried to fit one of those rotors into the 23T bracket, it was a no go, and it fits fine in the 25T.

If you'd like, I'm sure I can dig up a metric ruler around here, and measure my rotors to be sure.

Perhaps the one from Auto Zone are indeed 24.2mm, and the one from Brembo are 23 mm. Maybe Brembo is using a different steel and feels that they can use a thinner rotor and still get effective performance, while the Duralasts are made from a poorer grade, and are therefore made a bit thicker. I'd say that the measurements in the photo are just wrong, but then that wouldn't explain why the rotor didn't fit the 23T bracket.

[Velocifero]

Velo, you may well be right, however I didn't just pull that out of my ass

I purchased my rotors, and calipers from Autozone, and got my information from their website.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2_178857_2708_

That page shows a picture of the rotor, with measurements. According to the pic, the overall thickness of the rotor, from rear surface to the front of the hat is 47.1mm, and the thickness from the front of the hat to the front surface of the rotor is 22.9mm. The difference then would be the thickness of the rotor, and it is 24.2mm. I would call that 25mm, not 23mm. Of course, those measurements could be wrong, but when I tried to fit one of those rotors into the 23T bracket, it was a no go, and it fits fine in the 25T.

If you'd like, I'm sure I can dig up a metric ruler around here, and measure my rotors to be sure.

Perhaps the one from Auto Zone are indeed 24.2mm, and the one from Brembo are 23 mm. Maybe Brembo is using a different steel and feels that they can use a thinner rotor and still get effective performance, while the Duralasts are made from a poorer grade, and are therefore made a bit thicker. I'd say that the measurements in the photo are just wrong, but then that wouldn't explain why the rotor didn't fit the 23T bracket.

lol nah the ROH Preludes are 23m using the 23T and the V6, Wagon, and apparently SiR uses 25mm HOR using the 25T brackets. I know because I did my bigger brake kit using the V6 25mm rotors first, then converted over to the 23mm Prelude ROH conversion. And I'm going to take Brembo's word over Vatozone.