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1. The 00 accord ex comes with abs so yes on the fronts. For the rears, cars equipped with drums do not have abs on drums so you are on your own there.
2. About upper a arms this is covered in the write up so re read it.
3. Your last question about using 4 lug stuff for simple roh makes absolutely no sense AT ALL. This is about 5 lug big brake upgrade using other stock accord year model parts not about ROH using 4 lug parts.... Again re-read the post.
Well I think he is asking if we can use the 4 lug knuckles from a 6th gen on our car to get a quick painless ROH swap. For that I would say to check the spline count on a 6th gen 4 lug axle at Autozone or w/e, and then compare that with a 4th gen. I think it would probably work though
But that's outside the scope of this thread
Originally posted by lordoja
im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
1. The 00 accord ex comes with abs so yes on the fronts. For the rears, cars equipped with drums do not have abs on drums so you are on your own there.
2. About upper a arms this is covered in the write up so re read it.
3. Your last question about using 4 lug stuff for simple roh makes absolutely no sense AT ALL. This is about 5 lug big brake upgrade using other stock accord year model parts not about ROH using 4 lug parts.... Again re-read the post.
the only reason I asked #3 was because this thread is also confirming 6th gen knuckles on a cb7. I'm not really sure if I want to do a 5 lug swap yet but I would like to at least do a ROH in the future.
the only reason I asked #3 was because this thread is also confirming 6th gen knuckles on a cb7. I'm not really sure if I want to do a 5 lug swap yet but I would like to at least do a ROH in the future.
I am really sorry about sounding condesending if I came across that way. I have not confirmed the front spindles on the f23 4 lug and the spline counts. I can try and check next week.
WAGONS
94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.
looks good! what measurement is the front rotor on the v6 5 lug?
is it the same vtec 11" with the vtec calipers?
WOW on the 5 lug rear drum lol. Very impressive. Didnt think anyone would of ever kept drum and go 5 lug..
Yes they are 11" fronts....
The rears I did just to do it!! They were actually quite fun to do. I kept saying to myself " this is probably the silliest swap I have done... And just to say I did it and it can be done! The funny part is I had the rear disc five lug brake stuff already bolted on and e brake cables done and I took it back apart JUST to do this!!! I know I know dumb.... But hey at least it's original!!! Although originality on this part may not be such a big hit....whatever it's done now.
WAGONS
94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.
very nice write up !! i know ppl would love to do the rear drum setup because of the simple fact of not having to do much work and is very inexpensive to do.
oh .. .is there any way you can include the rear disc part of the swap !! i am curious on how that came out and the parts you used !! i know about the offset but would like to see how that came out !! and also could you find out something for me since you have more access to the junkyards than me ... can you see if one of the rear hubs that are five lug are the same size hub as wagon rears ??? because wagon rears are bigger hubs thus making it a more of a pain to do because then you have to swap out to the rear sedan rear disc and then going 5 lug. if you could find the 5 lug rear disc hub that would fit wagons that would be freaking the best thing for me and the wagon guys !!!
THANKS ! that would make this thread unbeatable !!
Originally posted by Devergote
A CB7 with an H22, a clean paintjob, HIDs with a projector retrofit, some nice wheels, and a mild drop on H&R Sport springs and Koni Yellow shocks... that's the perfect car. I'd be happy with that for the rest of my life.
very nice write up !! i know ppl would love to do the rear drum setup because of the simple fact of not having to do much work and is very inexpensive to do.
oh .. .is there any way you can include the rear disc part of the swap !! i am curious on how that came out and the parts you used !! i know about the offset but would like to see how that came out !! and also could you find out something for me since you have more access to the junkyards than me ... can you see if one of the rear hubs that are five lug are the same size hub as wagon rears ??? because wagon rears are bigger hubs thus making it a more of a pain to do because then you have to swap out to the rear sedan rear disc and then going 5 lug. if you could find the 5 lug rear disc hub that would fit wagons that would be freaking the best thing for me and the wagon guys !!!
THANKS ! that would make this thread unbeatable !!
Yeah I have owned 5 wagons..... I am down for helping you out on that... the problem is finding one so I can compare parts.
The offset on the rears using the 98 3.2tl would make the wheel stick out 1 or 1-1/2" IF retaining ALL TL PARTS.... The rear end of the TL's of that year and body style are wider... thus the offset.... I did measure all the lower control arms and the rear subframe/ cross member and even the rear sway bar was ALL THE SAME from TL to CB. The ONLY difference was the hub size is longer.... I did however replace the tl hub with the LUDE and used the original hub washer and doubled the washers up since the hub spline is about 1/8" longer and allowed for some play/ movement with the lude hub and would not let the caliper sit right in between the rotor when installed. Then used the TL nut and it worked perfect.... .Just had the TL but sticking out of the center of the hub about 1/2"
I actually able to identify the calipers from the lude bolted to the TL using 95 EX brake cables..... a little tight but works.
I will look for a wagon though cool?
WAGONS
94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.
Would i be able to check if they are still on the car? I have acesse to a 99 accord EX 4 lug at my school and could measure if i knew what to measure.
Alright this is going to be the best way I can describe to you how to check the measurements on these 2.
Check spline nut and verify it to be 36mm- if not stop right there wont work.
Check to see if the tie rod is connected with the threads pointing up through the knuckle and the nut and cotter pin on the top meaning you are looking down on this.
This part is not going to be easy unless you pull the knuckle off completely to verify it.
FIRST verify the smaller ball joint and that it uses the 17mm nut.... if not stop right there. This would require the reamer and not be direct bolt in anymore.
Second measure from the top of the knuckle (with the lugs facing down) should measure 18" to the lower ball joint and actually allow the tape measure to bend with the curve of the knuckle. Then I look at the bend/ curve of the knuckle if it is different then you will have front end issues and will walk all over the road when driving... if curve is the same or VERY VERY similar then I say go for it!!!!
94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.
I would not say that..... I just love to find options for things that have not been done and make them work especially when someone says it wont work. I want to give people options and educate not brag.
I know a lot of what I know from just paying attention to details and being willing to take risks.
WAGONS
94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.
oh .. .is there any way you can include the rear disc part of the swap !! i am curious on how that came out and the parts you used !! i know about the offset but would like to see how that came out !!
THANKS ! that would make this thread unbeatable !!
To answer this part.... Would you like for me to add it to the first post of the write up or how would you like it added?
WAGONS
94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.
Alright this is going to be the best way I can describe to you how to check the measurements on these 2.
Check spline nut and verify it to be 36mm- if not stop right there wont work.
Check to see if the tie rod is connected with the threads pointing up through the knuckle and the nut and cotter pin on the top meaning you are looking down on this.
This part is not going to be easy unless you pull the knuckle off completely to verify it.
FIRST verify the smaller ball joint and that it uses the 17mm nut.... if not stop right there. This would require the reamer and not be direct bolt in anymore.
Second measure from the top of the knuckle (with the lugs facing down) should measure 18" to the lower ball joint and actually allow the tape measure to bend with the curve of the knuckle. Then I look at the bend/ curve of the knuckle if it is different then you will have front end issues and will walk all over the road when driving... if curve is the same or VERY VERY similar then I say go for it!!!!
Ill try that next monday. I cant take the knuckle off but ill try to verify as much as i can.
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