I was just wondering if a crapping out fuel pump was the solution to the problems I've had with my car. It usually takes more then 1 time to start it, and after its warmed up, it always starts on the first try. Sometimes it runs good, sometimes it runs crappy. If I try starting it while its cold, it will feel like its gonna start, but sputter like it has seafoam in it and turn off. The time after that, it ALWAYS starts. A weird problem... any solutions?
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Fuel Pump?
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Has it become progressively worse? I'm sure fuel filters are meant to go much longer than a year, but its pretty easy to do and they're cheap. I replaced my fuel filter recently (it was about 15 months old) while trying to narrow down the suspects for my current problem. Didn't do jack squat, the old one was still immaculate (from what I could tell) but wth, why not.
But like he said, I'd suggest testing your fuel pressure. I think f22-guru had a step by step in another post around here somewhere...
bah try this one
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=fuel+pressure
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.
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Originally posted by accordaffairI think f22-guru had a step by step in another post around here somewhere...
bah try this one
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=fuel+pressure
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That would be MY post in that thread. And I've always thought it could be that, but then again, it takes 2-3 times to start when I don't press the gas, and when I do tap the gas it backfires, so I'll probably try to do the main relay fix. Does anyone have one for sale, cause i'm pretty confident that i'll fuck it up.
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Apparently SUKMEIDIK has a sense of humour that others tend to lack. You could try the Main Relay but I still reckon your problem lays with the loss of Retained Fuel Pressure. It's quite easy to check it out to be sure if you have access to a fuel pressure gauge. Actually, I wrote that post in relation to another problem posted.
With the Backfiring when pumping the gas pedal, the ECU is getting confused when it sees an 'off idle' signal from the TPS during crank and in turn adjusts the fuel injectors to suit. Funnily enough you can Flood an EFI system as well by pumping the gas pedal. The excess fuel injected wets up the spark plugs and can cause a misfire or failure to start situation. 87 N13 Nissan Pulsars were a car notorious for this.
Going WOT puts the EMS into Clear Flood Mode by shutting fuel delivery during crank so by allowing the excess air intake to correct the AFR.
Sometimes you have to remove the Spark Plugs to Dry them out. Giving it a gutful after starting help clear them out as well. Worse Case is having to replace the spark plugs.
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running too rich and and it can cause the hard starting...check your plugs and see if they are flooded.Do you have a fpr that is set too rich?
Also, That valve with the white thing that has to be tightened...i think its the fiv or something.As soon as i tightne that the car starts up like a champ.
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Mk3 Supra Member #2
Originally posted by DarkShadow707The world needs to be reset.
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Originally posted by F22-GURUApparently SUKMEIDIK has a sense of humour that others tend to lack. You could try the Main Relay but I still reckon your problem lays with the loss of Retained Fuel Pressure. It's quite easy to check it out to be sure if you have access to a fuel pressure gauge. Actually, I wrote that post in relation to another problem posted.
With the Backfiring when pumping the gas pedal, the ECU is getting confused when it sees an 'off idle' signal from the TPS during crank and in turn adjusts the fuel injectors to suit. Funnily enough you can Flood an EFI system as well by pumping the gas pedal. The excess fuel injected wets up the spark plugs and can cause a misfire or failure to start situation. 87 N13 Nissan Pulsars were a car notorious for this.
Going WOT puts the EMS into Clear Flood Mode by shutting fuel delivery during crank so by allowing the excess air intake to correct the AFR.
Sometimes you have to remove the Spark Plugs to Dry them out. Giving it a gutful after starting help clear them out as well. Worse Case is having to replace the spark plugs.
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It's all in the description of the symptoms.
Starts OK Cold, Hard to restart hot, Restarts OK after period of time of Cooling Down = MAIN RELAY FAULT:
Hard to Start Cold, Re-Starts OK Hot, Hard to Restart after period of time of cooling down = LACK OF RETAINED FUEL PRESSURE:
Both Symptoms are opposite each other
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I had a customer come in last week with exactly the same problem ,, after a bit of diagnostic work and to my amezement i found that it was a bad ignitor,,,never in a millin years would i thing an ignitor would cause those symptoms,,every single ignitor issues have been when car is hot, die while driving , no start ,, anyho,, it still had that crap black OKI ignitor,, i replaced it and car has been starting ok since ,,,,,,,,,, you might want to pull the cap off and take a look and see which ignitor you have ,,,I am not saying that's what's wrong with your car ,, just another suggestion to toss on your lapsNice Asses I Like
Smart asses I don't
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