The front and rear motor mounts are usually the first to fail. Replacing the rear mount can help smooth out your idle and shifting. Refer to Honda's service bulletin on the procedure.
This is very helpful, however Honda's method may be rather daunting to you. They recommend coming from the bottom. When you have access to a lift, it may actually be easier that way. Most of us do not have a lift though. For them it is worth considering attacking the problem from the top. This requires removing the Intake manifold. That is another procedure itself. Refer to Cokinuts guide on removing/swapping the H23 Intake manifold for that.
His link points to mine as well, so check out both. Once the intake manifold is removed and out of the way we are ready to begin.
-Your average set of wrenchs/sockets, 10/12/14 mm being used most often.
-A torque wrench is recommended.
-A set of extensions, preferably wobble-type is recommended.
Not including the intake manifold time, about 15-30 minutes, depending on users skill.
Step 1: Remove the INTAKE MANIFOLD along with your intake.
Step 2: Disconnect the VACUUM HOSE from the REAR ENGINE MOUNT DIAPHRAGM.
As can be seen here...
Step 3: Remove the three REAR ENGINE MOUNT MOUNTING BOLTS.
As seen here..
And here...
And here...
Step 4: Remove the REAR MOUNT BRACKET STAY between the engine and the transmission. There is one bolt and one nut.
As seen here..
And here...
Step 5: Remove the MAIN REAR ENGINE MOUNT MOUNTING BOLT. Labeled as "MOUNTING BOLT".
As seen here..the bolt there with the X over it is main mounting bolt. You WILL be removing this bolt.
Step 6: Remove the two COOLANT HOSES coming out of the firewall just ahead of the MOTOR MOUNT. They are blocking the mount from being slid out of the mounting bracket. They will leak coolant if the cooling system hasn't been drained.
Step 7: Since those are out of your way you can slide the mount out of its bracket. It may require some effort to take it out since there is limited space available.
Step 8: Install the new REAR ENGINE MOUNT. Torque the bolts as shown.
Step 9: Reinstall all removed parts. Remember to reattach the vacuum hose. Top off your coolant, I lost about 1/2 gallon total.
I found that it is hard to tell if the mount is bad. My old mount felt just as sturdy and rigid as the new one when flexed by hand. Perhaps it is the solenoid that fails. It is different from the front mount where I could tell plainly it was ripped. This new motor mount has worked well. It improved shifting some, but that is the transmission that is more to blame. Idle is much better now, and idle while the AC is on is also much better. I'd say it has improved by more than 50%. I bought my mount on ebay for $30. It is an "OEM replacement" not made by Honda but regardless it's great and the seller was very professional and very communicative. Those with automatic transmissions should definitely consider doing this.
*I edited this post from the original to try to make it easier to read.*
This is very helpful, however Honda's method may be rather daunting to you. They recommend coming from the bottom. When you have access to a lift, it may actually be easier that way. Most of us do not have a lift though. For them it is worth considering attacking the problem from the top. This requires removing the Intake manifold. That is another procedure itself. Refer to Cokinuts guide on removing/swapping the H23 Intake manifold for that.
His link points to mine as well, so check out both. Once the intake manifold is removed and out of the way we are ready to begin.
Tools needed
-Your average set of wrenchs/sockets, 10/12/14 mm being used most often.
-A torque wrench is recommended.
-A set of extensions, preferably wobble-type is recommended.
Time required
Not including the intake manifold time, about 15-30 minutes, depending on users skill.
Step 1: Remove the INTAKE MANIFOLD along with your intake.
Step 2: Disconnect the VACUUM HOSE from the REAR ENGINE MOUNT DIAPHRAGM.
As can be seen here...
Step 3: Remove the three REAR ENGINE MOUNT MOUNTING BOLTS.
As seen here..
And here...
And here...
Step 4: Remove the REAR MOUNT BRACKET STAY between the engine and the transmission. There is one bolt and one nut.
As seen here..
And here...
Step 5: Remove the MAIN REAR ENGINE MOUNT MOUNTING BOLT. Labeled as "MOUNTING BOLT".
As seen here..the bolt there with the X over it is main mounting bolt. You WILL be removing this bolt.
Step 6: Remove the two COOLANT HOSES coming out of the firewall just ahead of the MOTOR MOUNT. They are blocking the mount from being slid out of the mounting bracket. They will leak coolant if the cooling system hasn't been drained.
Step 7: Since those are out of your way you can slide the mount out of its bracket. It may require some effort to take it out since there is limited space available.
Step 8: Install the new REAR ENGINE MOUNT. Torque the bolts as shown.
Step 9: Reinstall all removed parts. Remember to reattach the vacuum hose. Top off your coolant, I lost about 1/2 gallon total.
I found that it is hard to tell if the mount is bad. My old mount felt just as sturdy and rigid as the new one when flexed by hand. Perhaps it is the solenoid that fails. It is different from the front mount where I could tell plainly it was ripped. This new motor mount has worked well. It improved shifting some, but that is the transmission that is more to blame. Idle is much better now, and idle while the AC is on is also much better. I'd say it has improved by more than 50%. I bought my mount on ebay for $30. It is an "OEM replacement" not made by Honda but regardless it's great and the seller was very professional and very communicative. Those with automatic transmissions should definitely consider doing this.
*I edited this post from the original to try to make it easier to read.*
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