I Have Solved The Idle Issues

[bcjammerx]

If you have cleaned your IACV
If you have adjusted your FICV
If you have adjusted your idle via factory service manual specs
If you have cleaned your TB

ALL TO HAVE THAT ANNOYING BOUNCING IDLE TO COME BACK!!!!

Don't buy a new FICV, stop worrying.

I have the solution...readjust your idle...I know I know...you already did that last week right? Well guess what...that damn screw has backed itself out again...trust me...try it.


Here are the symptoms to look for.
Your idle run high (above 900rpm), usually it is noticed in these increments, most folks notice their idle is high when it is at one of these numbers:
1100
1500
2000

Upon reaching 25mph your idle will go from 1500 to 900 to 1500 etc etc.
OR if the idle is higher than 1100, it will go from 2000 to 1500 to 2000 etc etc.

After cleaning and readjusting all that crap...your idle is fine for anywhere from 3 days to 2-3 weeks...then it stars idleing higher...then it starts up and down and up and down.

Here is what mine did;
1. idle high in cold weather on cold start
2. upon engine warm up and idling the engine would continue to idle high (it does not matter how high...just that it idles higher than 900rpms)
3. while driving it will act fine...tends to rev up a bit more than normal in-between shifts (it will rev up a tad under normal)
4. upon slowing down (most don't notice until they stop), once 25 mph is reached the engine will rev up and down and up and down...etc.
5. re-adjusted idle screw for second time on a whim...noticed...it was farther back than last adjust...
6. 1 week later...idle higher than normal.
7. checked idle screw...ALMOST BACKED OUT COMPLETELY IN ONE WEEK!!!

The problem is that the idle screw backs itself out within a week, or less...or more.

So if you have a throbbing idle, spiratic idle, up and down idle...check the idle screw.

Like i said...mine backed itself out in 3 days one time...2 weeks the next. So far this adjust has lasted 4 days so far...but the idle has already gone back up 100-200rpms so far.

I might just put some lock tight on there...just enough to keep it in place...I believe there is supposed to be some sort of gasket on it as mine nearly came all the way out last time and there appeared to be something rubber or other material on the threads.

Any hoo...don't waste your money...re-adjust the idle each time...if that doesn't work...THEN buy parts...I would do this even before cleaning the iacv and adjusting the ficv honestly.

[ExplodingCake]

woot!

[ex_style90]

Seriously, I really hear about alot of idle problems on this site..Ive even posted up a few idle related topics..I guess Honda was really poor on designing the idling system when they first came out with the 4th gen. accords..

[onefastbunny]

would these things be something to check for me?
i actually have a low idle problem like almost stalling at stops

[ex_style90]

would these things be something to check for me?
i actually have a low idle problem like almost stalling at stops

Yea, wouldnt hurt to be safe. I would suggest doing all these diagnostics if you have an older engine or one that hasnt been driven in awhile...

[jtkustomizer]

If you do go for the locktite dont use red or blue!!! Get the GREEN!!!

[onefastbunny]

Yea, wouldnt hurt to be safe. I would suggest doing all these diagnostics if you have an older engine or one that hasnt been driven in awhile...

well i do drive mine a good bit around 200mi a day and it is almost at the 200,000 mark still runs great other than the idle issue

do i need any kinds of gaskets or anything cleaning these things and also what do you suggest for a cleaner just like intake cleaner?

[lokuputha]

cool write up

[Fzzy285]

my idle issue was actually caused by my ignition control module. once that was replaced, all problems dissappeared

[PR CB7]

mine was actually cuz of th h23 manifold swap

it idles @2k but after 5mins goes back to normalllllll
yeeeeyyy me

[cb9pr]

why???

If you have cleaned your IACV
If you have adjusted your FICV
If you have adjusted your idle via factory service manual specs
If you have cleaned your TB

ALL TO HAVE THAT ANNOYING BOUNCING IDLE TO COME BACK!!!!

Don't buy a new FICV, stop worrying.

I have the solution...readjust your idle...I know I know...you already did that last week right? Well guess what...that damn screw has backed itself out again...trust me...try it.


Here are the symptoms to look for.
Your idle run high (above 900rpm), usually it is noticed in these increments, most folks notice their idle is high when it is at one of these numbers:
1100
1500
2000

Upon reaching 25mph your idle will go from 1500 to 900 to 1500 etc etc.
OR if the idle is higher than 1100, it will go from 2000 to 1500 to 2000 etc etc.

After cleaning and readjusting all that crap...your idle is fine for anywhere from 3 days to 2-3 weeks...then it stars idleing higher...then it starts up and down and up and down.

Here is what mine did;
1. idle high in cold weather on cold start
2. upon engine warm up and idling the engine would continue to idle high (it does not matter how high...just that it idles higher than 900rpms)
3. while driving it will act fine...tends to rev up a bit more than normal in-between shifts (it will rev up a tad under normal)
4. upon slowing down (most don't notice until they stop), once 25 mph is reached the engine will rev up and down and up and down...etc.
5. re-adjusted idle screw for second time on a whim...noticed...it was farther back than last adjust...
6. 1 week later...idle higher than normal.
7. checked idle screw...ALMOST BACKED OUT COMPLETELY IN ONE WEEK!!!

The problem is that the idle screw backs itself out within a week, or less...or more.

So if you have a throbbing idle, spiratic idle, up and down idle...check the idle screw.

Like i said...mine backed itself out in 3 days one time...2 weeks the next. So far this adjust has lasted 4 days so far...but the idle has already gone back up 100-200rpms so far.

I might just put some lock tight on there...just enough to keep it in place...I believe there is supposed to be some sort of gasket on it as mine nearly came all the way out last time and there appeared to be something rubber or other material on the threads.

Any hoo...don't waste your money...re-adjust the idle each time...if that doesn't work...THEN buy parts...I would do this even before cleaning the iacv and adjusting the ficv honestly.

do people call it a idle screw i always thought it adjust your air/fuel mixture i thought the idle screw was under the throttle spring where the throttle cable is hooked to the tb just curious not to be a but hole

[bcjammerx]

it doesn't change fuel mixture at all...it only effects air flow that it allows to bypass the TB...and only at idle...other than that I have no clue really. I believe the only way to adjust your air/fuel mixture is to alter the ECU's programing.

But just in case...I AM talking about the screw at the top of the throttle body (TB).

Green eh...thanks for that heads up jtkustomizer

well, ex_style90, remember...my car just rolled over 200k, I doubt many cars can go that long without needing some adjustment...but the problem is EASILY fixed and isn't the result of excessive wear or breakage...just...slowly backing out over 14+ years. It is fixed by just...screwing it back in and making sure it stays...takes maybe 5-10 min?
The majority of the issues are people not doing the right thing to begin with to fix it...so it just seems like a big never ending problem cause they are cleaning this and that and adjusting this and that...if it comes back...none of those were the issue...such was the case with me...I didn't need to clean anything...just readjust the screw

btw...so far the honda hasn't altered it's idle anymore so I am rethinking the thread lock idea...


and onefastbunny,

if you take the TB off you will most likely need a new gasket...I used red toyota RTV on the rough spots when I took mine off and it's fine. That particular RTV stays somewhat soft after it dries...and is usually used on transmission pans.

I believe there is a gasket on the IACV, but...I don't remember messing it up...can't really recall if I put that red liquid gasket on there or not...I prolly did. As to the FICV it has an oring but it's good.

I would recommend following the instructions laid out for adjusting the idle screw (see below)...drive it for a bit...and if it keeps doing it after that...just unscrew it while it's doing it until it idles around 700-800 rpms...then drive some more.

You will prolly need to clean the IACV and your TB butterfly plate and the inside of the TB, when I worked on Toyota trucks they would die at idle cause the TB butterfly plate was supposed to be just a hair open...but filth built up (thanks pcv system) and clogged it.


(below)

Turn off car
unplug IACV electrical line
start engine
let it warm up (fans kick on then go off)
(if you've been driving the car and it's acting up then turn off car...unplug...start back up)
screw in the screw at the top of the TB until car it about to die
(if it's already about to die then back it off)
then back the screw out until car ides around 600-700rpms (unless it was already about to die then just back it out to that point)
turn off car
plug IACV connector back in
start car


Now...the last time I had to adjust my screw...I didn't do all that...I just adjusted it until the idle was about 700...but again...you might need to clean the TB and IACV first.

[accordaffair]

http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php

This can be useful too though its for another car.

I've never tried the covering-the-holes method, but it seems brilliant if it works.

[stanchua]

i've seen mechanics using the cover-the-hole method, basically they cover the throttle hole completely and rev the engine high enough, then release and let the hole suck the air, that provides a huge & sudden air and sucked into the manifold and thus clearing the manifold and stuff

keep an eye on the exhaust, u might get whole bunch of smokes n carbon

[bcjammerx]

:idle screw adjust update below:

This covering the hole method sounds like a really really bad idea...you don't want to suck a bunch of non-filtered air into your engine for one but more importantly...if you have some blockage like that you DO NOT want to suck it in...bad for the engine.

I didn't read the link so I may be off here...throttle body cleaning removes fine material. Top engine decarb cleanings are preventative and anything they remove is dissolved with the cleaner (usually) or it is more fine particles.

This sounds like a BIG stricture and that's not something you want to break off all at once and run through your engine...this just sounds like a crap idea to me...imo...


Any hoo keeping this updated...I had to adjust my idle screw three days ago it had backed out again...seemed to do it overnight too...fine one day then I started it up the next morning...letting it warm up...noticed it was revving up and down.

Re-adjust again solved that...will be using some very weak form of something similar to lock tight as per recommendations from other members. (don't wanna lock that bitch down all the way...not a good idea)