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Help with overheating troubleshoot

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    #1

    Help with overheating troubleshoot

    Hi all,

    I recently noticed while sitting at a stop light that the temp gauge started creeping up on my 93 SE. As soon as I started moving again, the temp dropped back down to normal (~1/2 on the gauge). If I keep the heater turned all the way to hot, I have not seen it overheat at all, whether the blower is on or off.

    My first thought was thermostat, even though I should have probably thought otherwise since when I checked the hoses the first time I saw this problem, both upper and lower rad hoses were hot. Regardless, I installed a new thermo, and the temp still creeps up if I'm sitting still with the temp dial set to cold.

    I am now thinking it is the radiator fan, since I have not been seen or heard the fan run either with the car running, or after I turn the car off. If I turn on the A/C, both rad fans spin (passenger side and driver side) so I know the motor isn't bad.

    I believe this leaves me with the two fan switches, and the relay, right? Is the fact that neither switch seems to be working (car on vs. car off) a hint that it might be the relay, and if so, is there a way to test that? Or should I just start replacing switches, and then move on to the relay if that doesn't fix things?

    Also as additional information, the water pump is fairly new (4 years old, maybe 30,000 miles?) and the previous thermostat was <1 year old. I bled the coolant after changing the thermostat this latest time.

    Thanks
    Tags: cooling system, overheat, radiator fans
    #2
    You can bypass/jump the thermo switch on the thermostat and see if the rad fan comes on or not.
    A&P-IA

    Comment

      #3
      Be SURE that there is no air in the cooling system. It can be pesky like that.
      The fan relay is possible. That would be my first guess, if you're certain that the coolant is circulating.
      As for the new-ish pump... was it a new OEM pump, or a cheaper aftermarket unit? A cheaper aftermarket pump could be approaching the end of its life already. Those things often don't last nearly as long as OEM.

      The fan relay is my first guess, though... and probably the easiest to fix.






      Comment

        #4
        Heres what you do if its getting bad first make sure the car is in the cold for a few hours sitting. Then take the car and fill up the radiator cap with the right fluid which should be 50/50 mix.

        Do not add water or anything like that since its already premixed for you. If its still a problem change the thermostat check for leaks a leak in the system can let air in the system which will cause it to overheat too.

        Comment

          #5
          Finally was able to pick up a new relay at the dealership, and everything works perfectly now. Thanks for the help guys!

          Now I can go back to my ongoing battle with oil leaks, bypassing my non-functional bose amp, replacing broken door handles, and all the other fun that comes along with a 19 year old car.
          Last edited by doublfelix; 11-06-2012, 12:33 PM.

          Comment

            #6
            You didn't just take it apart and re-solder the main relay first?

            See my BOSE thread for the bypass info. I also discuss door handles in my MRT.
            Last edited by wildBill83; 11-06-2012, 12:56 PM.

            Comment

              #7
              Nope, though I did that repair for the vehicle Main relay. I didn't realize I could do the same thing for the Rad Fan relay too. Darn.

              I've read through your Bose thread, it actually inspired me to finally tackle the project since I could never seem to find the right wiring diagrams and put together a proper gameplan before. Now it's just simply a matter of finding an afternoon to sit in the trunk and do some soldering.

              I'll be sure to check out the door handle info, though the bigger holdup is simply getting out to the JY to grab a new one.

              Edit - scratch that, just saw that you used door handles from JC Whitney. At 4.99 and apparently more or less colormatched, no sense driving to the junkyard.
              Last edited by doublfelix; 11-06-2012, 02:29 PM.

              Comment

                #8
                Do you have the sedan? Can you see the BOSE amp in the trunk? My amp was in the rear passenger quarter panel. So I sat in my cabin and wired it, I had to take the seat out or else I would have sat on it. If you gather everything you need before you start, then it really only takes 20-30 minutes to cut and solder everything.

                Yes, do not use JY door handles, they fall apart just the same. New is the best way to go becuase they reinforced it better.

                Above all else, have fun with the car. It may be 20 years old but it can be made just as modern as most new cars out there with some DIY guides and some elbow grease.

                Comment

                  #9
                  It is indeed the sedan, so the amp is located on the driver's side, attached to the underside of the rear deck. I think more than anything, it will simply be annoying to be working back there without very much slack in the bundle of wires that comes from up front. I might have to see if I can free up some more wire to work with once I get in there.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I used 1ft long patch wires and added service loops for future maintenance. It really is painless once you get comfortable... but I'm a smaller dude so my comfy can be uncomfy for a bigger guy.

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