I did a search and was surprised that there was basically zero info related to this swap so I decided to do a write-up while I was at it. I just dropped the motor in over the weekend and here's some info that may help some of you guys. If anyone else out there has this motor too and can add to this thread, go right ahead.
You would think that since this is an F22 and the original engine is also an F22 that it'd be pretty straightforward and be a direct drop in swap......that is far from the truth tho. It basically requires all the same mods as a an H22 swap plus a few other things. It's still not too difficult but I would rate it as slightly more difficult and more involved than an H22 swap. It took me about 17 hrs. to assemble the motor, pull the old one, drop the new one in and have it running. If you plan on doing this swap yourself in your back yard, it may take a few days or even a week or so because you probably won't have quite the assortment of hardcore tools that I have. It is still very do-able on your own.
Install Tips:
intermediate shafts are different - use the 90-93 interm. shaft and axles
I used the 90-93 accord brackets, alternator and P/S pump (A/C has been removed) since I did not have the 94-97 stuff. It required tapping one hole in the block to mount the alt. bracket and cutting off part of the P/S bracket.
The block does not have the cutout for timing marks on flywheel so make sure you use an underdrive pulley with timing marks on it.
Since I'm using the 90-93 accessories (alt. P/S), and the 94-97 u/d pulley, I had to use an H23 P/S pulley. It is smaller and lines up better with the u/d pulley.
The intake manifold is completely different especially the fuel rail and other fuel system parts. I had to do excessive modifications to the fuel rail to get it to work. The fuel lines goes at it from the D. side so I had to move the fuel connection to the P. side of the rail and relocate the fuel pressure regulator to the D. Side. I also had to plug up one additional opening on the fuel rail. The fuel line needed to be bent so that it does not hit the trottle. Again, the manifolds are completely different so sensor/devices are in totally different spots and require some re-wiring to get them to work. Vacuum connections are on the D. side backside of the manifold so I had to run new vacuum lines that reached. I also had to rig the throttle cable (zip-tied in place for now) but I will be making a throttle cable bracket soon.
The front crossmember needs to be cut like crazy to get the header/a-pipe to fit. A huge chunk needs to be cut out to even make room for the exhaust. Also, the a-pipe is only about 1.5' long while the CB7's is about 2' long so the exhaust does not meet up at all. Plus the rear flange on the a-pipe is a two bolt flange while the 4th gen is a 3 bolt. Some pretty excessive exhaust modifications are needed.
You want to use the CB7 trans mount but it reqires either the holes in the trans to be tapped so you can put studs in there, or you can do what I did and weld onto the mount so that it meets up with the existing studs.
You want to use the CB7 D. side mount but it does require some modifications. There are two parts to this mount.....the engine mount and the car mount. The engine mount needs to be cut on one side because it will hit the timing belt (ouch!!) and because the mount is different, the timing belt cover also needs to be modified to to fit it. The car mount part remains unmodified.
Use the Cb7 front and rear mounts and no modifications are needed.
I looked at the wiring diagrams and ECU pinouts for both the 93 EX and 94 EX and there are a few differences. I re-wired the ECU pins and a few things under the hood to match the 94 EX wiring and pinouts. If you wanted to, you could get away with ONLY running the VTEC wires and swapping pins A6 & A11. I went a few steps further and rewired mine to match the 94-95 wiring exactly. You don't have to if you don't want to. Here’s all the wiring the changes:
1.Pin D7 goes to the 3 wire data link connector - Not part of the 4th gens, not needed, and not wired up. I may end up adding this down the road so that I can plug in my scan tool.
2.Pin A10 goes to an Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve – Not part of the 4th gens and I do not have the valve so it’s not hooked up. This shouldn’t cause any running issues and will not kick on the CEL.
3. Pin A14 goes to the Fuel Injection Air Control Sol. Valve – Also not part of the 4th gens. It’s a two wire solenoid, one wire goes to Pin A14 and the other wire goes to a +12V switched wire (grabbed at the Idle Air Control Valve cause it’s close by).
4. The Intake Air Bypass Sol. Went to Pin A17 on the 4th gen, but goes to Pin A19 on the 5th gen. It is wired up, but the bypass sol. was removed long ago. This should not affect running conditions and will not kick on the CEL.
5. The Idle Air Control Sol. Valve used to go to Pin A19 on the 4th gen but does not exist on the 5th gen. engine and therefore is not wired up. There is an Idle Air Control Valve (not the solenoid) that goes to Pin A9 but it is wired identical to the 4th gen and remains wired that way. These two valves are not the same and not related.
6.Pin A22 was a secondary voltage wire that used to go to the Ignition Control Module (along with Pin A21) but is not used on the 5th gens.
7.Pin A8 was a secondary voltage wire that used to go to the Main Relay (along with Pin A7) but is not used on the 5th gens.
8.Pin D19 used to be a shared sensor wire but now goes directly to the MAP sensor. All previous sensors sharing this wire now go to Pin D20.
9.Pin D21 used to be a shared sensor wire but now goes directly to the MAP sensor. All previous sensors sharing this wire now go to Pin D22
10.Pin D6 is the VTEC press. Switch.
11. Pin A4 is the VTEC sol.
12. Swap pins A6 & A11 at the ECU. A6 is an O2 wire and A11 is an EGR wire. These are opposite on the 5th gen. Swap these pinsor your car will run like shit!
13.Also worth mentioning, but not used on my manual trans - Pins D5 and D14 are new additions that would run to the AT control module.
The F22B1 does not have the Idle Air Bypass Solenoid.
All other ECU pins and wiring are identical for both ECU’s. These are the only changes.
Here's a few pictures to give you more of an idea.
Still haven't wired up VTEC yet. The exhaust is not done yet so I'm not driving it on the street (running an open header right now and it's loud as shit). I'm running the PT3 ECU for now until the exhaust is straight. The P0A will go in sometime this week.
This shows the part of the cross member that needs to be cut to fit the exhaust.
Shows the cut P/S bracket.
Shows my ghetto throttle mount for now. I will be making a custom one soon.
Shows the fuel line bent to avoid hitting the throttle.
Shows the vacuum lines run in back of the manifold.
Shows the piece I welded on to the trans mount.
Shows some mods done to the D. side engine mount.
You would think that since this is an F22 and the original engine is also an F22 that it'd be pretty straightforward and be a direct drop in swap......that is far from the truth tho. It basically requires all the same mods as a an H22 swap plus a few other things. It's still not too difficult but I would rate it as slightly more difficult and more involved than an H22 swap. It took me about 17 hrs. to assemble the motor, pull the old one, drop the new one in and have it running. If you plan on doing this swap yourself in your back yard, it may take a few days or even a week or so because you probably won't have quite the assortment of hardcore tools that I have. It is still very do-able on your own.
Install Tips:
intermediate shafts are different - use the 90-93 interm. shaft and axles
I used the 90-93 accord brackets, alternator and P/S pump (A/C has been removed) since I did not have the 94-97 stuff. It required tapping one hole in the block to mount the alt. bracket and cutting off part of the P/S bracket.
The block does not have the cutout for timing marks on flywheel so make sure you use an underdrive pulley with timing marks on it.
Since I'm using the 90-93 accessories (alt. P/S), and the 94-97 u/d pulley, I had to use an H23 P/S pulley. It is smaller and lines up better with the u/d pulley.
The intake manifold is completely different especially the fuel rail and other fuel system parts. I had to do excessive modifications to the fuel rail to get it to work. The fuel lines goes at it from the D. side so I had to move the fuel connection to the P. side of the rail and relocate the fuel pressure regulator to the D. Side. I also had to plug up one additional opening on the fuel rail. The fuel line needed to be bent so that it does not hit the trottle. Again, the manifolds are completely different so sensor/devices are in totally different spots and require some re-wiring to get them to work. Vacuum connections are on the D. side backside of the manifold so I had to run new vacuum lines that reached. I also had to rig the throttle cable (zip-tied in place for now) but I will be making a throttle cable bracket soon.
The front crossmember needs to be cut like crazy to get the header/a-pipe to fit. A huge chunk needs to be cut out to even make room for the exhaust. Also, the a-pipe is only about 1.5' long while the CB7's is about 2' long so the exhaust does not meet up at all. Plus the rear flange on the a-pipe is a two bolt flange while the 4th gen is a 3 bolt. Some pretty excessive exhaust modifications are needed.
You want to use the CB7 trans mount but it reqires either the holes in the trans to be tapped so you can put studs in there, or you can do what I did and weld onto the mount so that it meets up with the existing studs.
You want to use the CB7 D. side mount but it does require some modifications. There are two parts to this mount.....the engine mount and the car mount. The engine mount needs to be cut on one side because it will hit the timing belt (ouch!!) and because the mount is different, the timing belt cover also needs to be modified to to fit it. The car mount part remains unmodified.
Use the Cb7 front and rear mounts and no modifications are needed.
I looked at the wiring diagrams and ECU pinouts for both the 93 EX and 94 EX and there are a few differences. I re-wired the ECU pins and a few things under the hood to match the 94 EX wiring and pinouts. If you wanted to, you could get away with ONLY running the VTEC wires and swapping pins A6 & A11. I went a few steps further and rewired mine to match the 94-95 wiring exactly. You don't have to if you don't want to. Here’s all the wiring the changes:
1.Pin D7 goes to the 3 wire data link connector - Not part of the 4th gens, not needed, and not wired up. I may end up adding this down the road so that I can plug in my scan tool.
2.Pin A10 goes to an Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve – Not part of the 4th gens and I do not have the valve so it’s not hooked up. This shouldn’t cause any running issues and will not kick on the CEL.
3. Pin A14 goes to the Fuel Injection Air Control Sol. Valve – Also not part of the 4th gens. It’s a two wire solenoid, one wire goes to Pin A14 and the other wire goes to a +12V switched wire (grabbed at the Idle Air Control Valve cause it’s close by).
4. The Intake Air Bypass Sol. Went to Pin A17 on the 4th gen, but goes to Pin A19 on the 5th gen. It is wired up, but the bypass sol. was removed long ago. This should not affect running conditions and will not kick on the CEL.
5. The Idle Air Control Sol. Valve used to go to Pin A19 on the 4th gen but does not exist on the 5th gen. engine and therefore is not wired up. There is an Idle Air Control Valve (not the solenoid) that goes to Pin A9 but it is wired identical to the 4th gen and remains wired that way. These two valves are not the same and not related.
6.Pin A22 was a secondary voltage wire that used to go to the Ignition Control Module (along with Pin A21) but is not used on the 5th gens.
7.Pin A8 was a secondary voltage wire that used to go to the Main Relay (along with Pin A7) but is not used on the 5th gens.
8.Pin D19 used to be a shared sensor wire but now goes directly to the MAP sensor. All previous sensors sharing this wire now go to Pin D20.
9.Pin D21 used to be a shared sensor wire but now goes directly to the MAP sensor. All previous sensors sharing this wire now go to Pin D22
10.Pin D6 is the VTEC press. Switch.
11. Pin A4 is the VTEC sol.
12. Swap pins A6 & A11 at the ECU. A6 is an O2 wire and A11 is an EGR wire. These are opposite on the 5th gen. Swap these pinsor your car will run like shit!
13.Also worth mentioning, but not used on my manual trans - Pins D5 and D14 are new additions that would run to the AT control module.
The F22B1 does not have the Idle Air Bypass Solenoid.
All other ECU pins and wiring are identical for both ECU’s. These are the only changes.
Here's a few pictures to give you more of an idea.
Still haven't wired up VTEC yet. The exhaust is not done yet so I'm not driving it on the street (running an open header right now and it's loud as shit). I'm running the PT3 ECU for now until the exhaust is straight. The P0A will go in sometime this week.
This shows the part of the cross member that needs to be cut to fit the exhaust.
Shows the cut P/S bracket.
Shows my ghetto throttle mount for now. I will be making a custom one soon.
Shows the fuel line bent to avoid hitting the throttle.
Shows the vacuum lines run in back of the manifold.
Shows the piece I welded on to the trans mount.
Shows some mods done to the D. side engine mount.
uhmm,, wow sounds like your install was way more difficult than mine.
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