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SUSP: Replacing them PRESSED ON ROTORS!!!

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    SUSP: Replacing them PRESSED ON ROTORS!!!

    1. Tools: 36mm axle nut socket (autozone)
    Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
    2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
    I think a 10mm 12pt socket
    (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt

    2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.

    3. Remove nut on outer tie rod. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.

    4. Remove nut on lower control arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.

    5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.

    6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.

    7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)

    8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.

    9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.

    10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.

    11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!

    12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!
    Last edited by xplode; 02-17-2004, 06:02 PM.
    91 4DR Accord LX White Auto
    Generic Mugen Lip
    Generic Intake
    EX 4-2-1 Header
    Dynomax Muffler
    Skunk2 Coilovers 560lb/in and Koni Yellows
    ST Rear Sway Bar
    17" Eagle Alloys/Kumho 711's

    #2
    This looks very familure I think I have seen it here.




    B4 you say anything I know its your DIY.
    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Comment


      #3
      ...man thanks for the wright up, but it was not even as hard as you made it sound. I never had to touch the ball joints or go to a shop to take the hub apart or press it back on. I did my front yesterday, and it only took an hour.
      OLD GUY CREW #1

      BDC #4

      93 EX coupe 5 speed

      Comment


        #4
        how come some people say they dont have to go to a machine shop to have them rotors pressed on/off? how do they do it themselves? do they have press's.lol thanks. i'm kinda iffy about doing this myself but dont wanna pay up the ass at a shop. i will attempt this when i get the balls.

        Comment


          #5
          I did it kinda ghetto style, I used a pry bar and a dead blow hammer, but it worked! I need new rotors any way so I didnt care if I messed up the ones one the car.
          OLD GUY CREW #1

          BDC #4

          93 EX coupe 5 speed

          Comment


            #6
            oem slide hammer. and the axle puller. after u take off the 4 bolts in the back. then u have to open up the 4 bolts in the front with only half of a turn. don't take them off
            then put the axle puller. put the two bolts that keep the wheel. then put the slide hammer int he axle puller. 5 hard pulls and the rotor is out.
            the only hard thing is to take off the 4 bolts int the back. u gona have to play with the steering wheel a little bit so u can get to those bolts. even then the 11spoke socket its not gona go all the way to these bolts. so u got to play around with it. make sure in the begining u sparyu lots of wd 40.
            i did mines in a matter of 2 hours.
            the 4 bolts in the back and moving the steering wheel then putting the rotor back so the back hole and the rotor hole get alignet took me while
            oh yeah i stoped for 30 min cursing the shit out of this front bolt that i broke. fucking shit.
            oh yeah don't use a impact guy when u put those 4 front bolts.
            are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

            Comment


              #7
              this link really helped me understand process.

              http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf


              "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
              "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
              "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

              Comment


                #8
                once again they are not pressed on, novice mechanics lol

                VTEC I dont need no stinkin Vtec

                Comment


                  #9
                  why do u have to hammer the hub out??? it comes right off...all u have to do is turn it a certain way and it comes off after u take out the 4 14 mm bolts...
                  What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                  You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                  Retro!

                  Hater

                  I love nooBs...They make me look good

                  Comment


                    #10
                    idk but my DIY is better, even has a video ofwhat accordztech is talking about.
                    I <3 G60.

                    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by starchland
                      this link really helped me understand process.

                      http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf
                      Did you actually use this process yet or no?


                      I am just curious on using the air chisel with the smoothing attachment. On the bolts you put back into the hub to be used with the air chisel...those arnt threaded into the hub are they?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        sorry, no i have not done this procedure yet, but reading that document did help me peace together the details. I am confident now that I am going to attempt this later in the week. By the sound of the document, the air chisel is just to separate what may be a rusted bolt from the rotor,etc, wd40 is ur friend.
                        Last edited by starchland; 10-25-2005, 01:32 AM.


                        "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                        "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                        "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by starchland
                          sorry, no i have not done this procedure yet, but reading that document did help me peace together the details. I am confident now that I am going to attempt this later in the week. By the sound of the document, the air chisel is just to separate what may be a rusted bolt from the rotor,etc, wd40 is ur friend.
                          negative, you dont need a air hammer, a reg. hammer and accuracy will do.
                          you are pouncding the hub assembly (which includes the rotor) out of the arm assembly.
                          I <3 G60.

                          0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by alb_accord
                            oem slide hammer. and the axle puller. after u take off the 4 bolts in the back. then u have to open up the 4 bolts in the front with only half of a turn. don't take them off
                            then put the axle puller. put the two bolts that keep the wheel. then put the slide hammer int he axle puller. 5 hard pulls and the rotor is out.
                            the only hard thing is to take off the 4 bolts int the back. u gona have to play with the steering wheel a little bit so u can get to those bolts. even then the 11spoke socket its not gona go all the way to these bolts. so u got to play around with it. make sure in the begining u sparyu lots of wd 40.
                            i did mines in a matter of 2 hours.
                            the 4 bolts in the back and moving the steering wheel then putting the rotor back so the back hole and the rotor hole get alignet took me while
                            oh yeah i stoped for 30 min cursing the shit out of this front bolt that i broke. fucking shit.
                            oh yeah don't use a impact guy when u put those 4 front bolts.
                            This method sounds interesting. Did you do this with the steering knuckle/balljoints still attached on the car ?


                            "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                            "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                            "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

                            Comment


                              #15
                              NO. the only time consuming thing is working with 4 bolts in the back and that is pretty much it.
                              are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

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