Engine bearings, yay!!!!

[wed3k]

So after work, i decided to do a little more research on engine bearings because my main bore housings were too large by .001"

the motor ran fine when it was pulled

to calculate actual bearing clearance, i used this formula.

BC = BH - JD -(2xBT)

BC = bearing clearance
BH = Bore housing diameter
JD = journal diameter
BT = Bearing thickness

example:
2.1265 - 1.9680 - (2 x .0786) = .0013"

i believe my bearing was a color yellow, but it was used so it probably lost a couple tenths.

that bearing clearance is fairly tight but would be prefect if one is running synthetic motor oil. BUT it still falls within spec.

According to ACL, a std thickness of the bearing is .0789". i am going to go ahead and assume that the rest of the bearings are similar to size of the B-series chart below. now that i looked at their catalog, the B and d series engines are +/- one tenth so whoop-dee-fucking-doo.

here is a pic where on can identify what color bearings for a simple engine rebuild (sorry for the crap pic, my scanner is down atm)





The main caps are harder to cut because the stupid dowels are in the way. one needs to remove these dowels by vice grips, dowel pin remover or channel locks. once done, it is recommended to get it align-honed since one of the caps will be out of round.


The rods:


Rods are easier to get back to stock since you can cut the cap a bit and then get them back to trueness. im not too worried about racing bearings for the rods. boss says that nascar uses 1.880" honda rod bearings so a lot of companies make them, plus my rod housing bores are going to be honed to exact size.


i am gonna update this thread once i get more info on the f22 honda bearings.

a little reference from earl @ H-t

Here is a chart of Honda B series bearing thickness by color. To calculate actual bearing clearance, use the following formula:

BC = IDBT – ODC – (2 x BT)

BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness

Main Bearing thickness by color
Blue 2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793”- 0.0791”
Black 2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791”- 0.0790”
Brown 2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790”- 0.0789”
Green 2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789”- 0.0788”
Yellow 2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788”- 0.0787”
Pink 1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787”- 0.0785”
Red 1.995-1.992 mm 0.0785”- 0.0783”

Rod bearing thickness by color
Blue 1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594”- 0.0593”
Black 1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593”- 0.0592”
Brown 1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592”- 0.0591”
Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591”- 0.0590”
Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590”- 0.0589”
Pink 1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589”- 0.0587”
Red 1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587”- 0.0586”

Although most people do not have inside micrometers, bearing micrometers or snap gauges, you can still use this chart when using plastigage to check bearing clearance. If you want to increase or decrease a bearing clearance, you can calculate how much of a color change is necessary by looking at the changes on the chart. Remember you can mix colors for even a more fine-tuning but it would not be wise to jump more than one color. In other words, do not mix a brown and yellow bearing together to equal a green clearance value. Just use the greens together. It is ok to mix a green with a yellow or a green with a brown. When doing your rebuild and replacing bearings with like colors, you still must check your results with plastigage to be sure. Don’t assume anything. Also remember, when swapping to after market rods, throw the color codes away as they will not work anymore. You need to start from scratch to obtain your desired clearance. On the other hand, you really cannot measure accurately to the nearest .0001” without machinist quality tools, so don’t get carried away on that last one ten thousandth of an inch variance.

remember, if you are going to get aftermarket bearings, whatever you do do not purchase a h22a4. the h22a1 and h23's are similiar to the f22's.

[almostJDM]

wow great info i can use this when i measure my f20b's bearings since i need new ones noew that i smoked mine which sux so now hopfully this info will help me decide which ones i need to get


edit: lol i could have just looked im my manual haha it shows all this

[wed3k]

updated.

the thicknesses are very similiar to the b series, if all fails, cant go wrong with a standard/green bearing as long as the crankshaft has not been ground.

if it has, ACL does offer undersize...

[d112crzy]

Just some info I found out myself.

All shop manuals I've found and everywhere on the internet mentions the way to find what color bearings you need are marked on the crank shaft/block like posted above.

I have found that to be false in my case.

I searched and cleaned the hell out of my crank and I found nothing.

Then, called up Cisco and he told me to look on the timing belt side end of the crank. On the counter weight, there were the markings.

They're not stamped/engraved into the metal, but rather it looks like a permanent ink stamp. its very hard to see.

I'll get some pictures up later.

[d112crzy]

I traced the numbers/letters in photoshop so you guys could see them better. But those are the only markings I had, that made sense anyways. There were others, in the same area that the book states, but were odd letters(M, G).

Anyways, the proper way to find out what color bearings your specific block/crank/rod combo uses, without measuring, do the following.

There is a stamp on the block, just like this



Those are for your mains. You will use those letters in the main bearing chart. They are the vertical ones.


Then, on the crank, either go the way the book says, or how I found mine.

The bottom numbers are the corresponding numbers for the mains. They are the horizontal numbers on the Main bearings chart.

Then, for the rods, you have to look at the rod, and it will have a number. It will be split between the main rod body, and the rod cap. *note: those numbers do not represent the cylinder in which the rod goes.
Get those numbers from the rod, and pair them up with the 4 letters on the crank.

Use the rod bearing chart to determine which color bearing you need.

For me mains, they were either green, or green/yellow according to the chart. I will measure everything with a gauge and come back with results. I will most likely end up going with greens for mains tho.

For my rods, it's different. I have a 3 yellows, and 1 pink. Once again, I will measure, and determine what clearance I want(i want on the looser end of the stock specs), and will decide on which bearing to get.

[d112crzy]

BC = BH - JD -(2xBT)

BC = bearing clearance
BH = Bore housing diameter
JD = journal diameter
BT = Bearing thickness

example:
2.1265 - 1.9680 - (2 x .786) = .0013"

Your example here is wrong. Well, it's not wrong, you just forgot to add a 0.

It should be

2.1265" - 1.9680"- (2 x .0786") = .0013"

[Grumpys93]

I traced the numbers/letters in photoshop so you guys could see them better. But those are the only markings I had, that made sense anyways. There were others, in the same area that the book states, but were odd letters(M, G).

Anyways, the proper way to find out what color bearings your specific block/crank/rod combo uses, without measuring, do the following.

There is a stamp on the block, just like this



Those are for your mains. You will use those letters in the main bearing chart. They are the vertical ones.


Then, on the crank, either go the way the book says, or how I found mine.

The bottom numbers are the corresponding numbers for the mains. They are the horizontal numbers on the Main bearings chart.

Then, for the rods, you have to look at the rod, and it will have a number. It will be split between the main rod body, and the rod cap. *note: those numbers do not represent the cylinder in which the rod goes.
Get those numbers from the rod, and pair them up with the 4 letters on the crank.

Use the rod bearing chart to determine which color bearing you need.

For me mains, they were either green, or green/yellow according to the chart. I will measure everything with a gauge and come back with results. I will most likely end up going with greens for mains tho.

For my rods, it's different. I have a 3 yellows, and 1 pink. Once again, I will measure, and determine what clearance I want(i want on the looser end of the stock specs), and will decide on which bearing to get.

I always wondered what those letters meant. But where did you guys get this book from? Or what is it?

[d112crzy]

I have a haynes. Bought it at my local autozone.

[Grumpys93]

ya thats what i have ill have to look through it again, but there is some pages missing and grease fingerprints all over it lol, i think i might just buy a new one

[wed3k]

Your example here is wrong. Well, it's not wrong, you just forgot to add a 0.

It should be

2.1265" - 1.9680"- (2 x .0786") = .0013"

oh schnap, thanks for catching that.

as for the markings, what block do you have?

because my markings were off a USDM block.

[d112crzy]

This is an f22a1 block. I haven't ripped open any JDM blocks, yet. I will tomorrow or the day after.

[wed3k]

This is an f22a1 block. I haven't ripped open any JDM blocks, yet. I will tomorrow or the day after.

and that block was a std? no indication of a rebuild?

[d112crzy]

Not that I know of.

[d112crzy]

For the guys with experience;

Where on the bearings do you make your measurements from?

I get different measurements from all these spots. My question is, which way is correct?

In the middle, with the tip of the caliper?


In the middle, only the bearing is flush with the end of the caliper?


or, still the middle, but the bearing is deeper in the caliper?


Also, do I do it from the middle of the bearing?


or the edge of the bearing?

[SoySauceCb7]

plasti-gauge.. you need to bolt in your crank and plastigauge to find out what bearings you need, and you can do the same with the rod journals. PLASTI-GAUGE!!!!!!!!!!