I created this thread because I've realized many people do not have this set properly on their engines, but think they do and wonder why the problems. A proper base idle RPM will prevent the engine from bogging/lugging out noticeably when it is loaded by such things as: A/C, P/S, rear defrost, headlights, etc. It helps the IACV recover quickly, instead of trying more than it should to compensate for the engine load. Also, following this procedure can indirectly tell you if you have a vacuum leak that is causing an idle issue.
IACV Explained Thread (thanks JDMCB3Si for link):
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ained-967.html
Setting Base Idle Properly:
1) Start engine, let it get fully warm (coolant temp needle @ normal mark).
2) When at normal warmed up temp, remove electrical connector off IACV. Motor will remaining running, but at a lower RPM or the motor will shut off.
** NOTE: For steps 3a and 3b, idle screw may have silicone covering the top of it. Simply scrap if off. Also, you may have to increase depth of slot in the idle screw by gouging it to be able to rotate it. **
3a) If motor remains running, using flat-blade screwdriver adjust idle screw to 600 RPM idle. Idle screw CCW raises RPM, CW lowers RPM. Then, plug IACV connector back on and idle will automatically adjust to about 700-800 RPM.
** NOTE: If while IACV connector is off, you can not adjust idle down to 600 RPM, then you have a vacuum leak. **
3b) If motor shuts off, using flat-blade screwdriver turn idle screw CCW 180 deg. and repeat step # 2. Repeat step # 3b until motor remains running when IACV connector removed. Then, move to step # 3a, going to step # 4 after. Idle screw CCW raises RPM, CW lowers RPM.
4) Turn off engine. Remove 7.5 AMP ECU backup/radio under-hood fusebox fuse for 10 seconds, then reinsert to allow ECU to reset itself.
5) Your base idle is set properly.
IACV Explained Thread (thanks JDMCB3Si for link):
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ained-967.html
Setting Base Idle Properly:
1) Start engine, let it get fully warm (coolant temp needle @ normal mark).
2) When at normal warmed up temp, remove electrical connector off IACV. Motor will remaining running, but at a lower RPM or the motor will shut off.
** NOTE: For steps 3a and 3b, idle screw may have silicone covering the top of it. Simply scrap if off. Also, you may have to increase depth of slot in the idle screw by gouging it to be able to rotate it. **
3a) If motor remains running, using flat-blade screwdriver adjust idle screw to 600 RPM idle. Idle screw CCW raises RPM, CW lowers RPM. Then, plug IACV connector back on and idle will automatically adjust to about 700-800 RPM.
** NOTE: If while IACV connector is off, you can not adjust idle down to 600 RPM, then you have a vacuum leak. **
3b) If motor shuts off, using flat-blade screwdriver turn idle screw CCW 180 deg. and repeat step # 2. Repeat step # 3b until motor remains running when IACV connector removed. Then, move to step # 3a, going to step # 4 after. Idle screw CCW raises RPM, CW lowers RPM.
4) Turn off engine. Remove 7.5 AMP ECU backup/radio under-hood fusebox fuse for 10 seconds, then reinsert to allow ECU to reset itself.
5) Your base idle is set properly.
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