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SUSP: CV joint/Axle Replacement

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    SUSP: CV joint/Axle Replacement

    Original link doesnt work... here are two other DIY's with images.

    http://honda-acura.net/forums/showthread.php?p=2851809

    http://www.automedia.com/CV/Rehab/ccr20021101cv/1
    Last edited by aero; 06-17-2006, 10:07 AM.

    #2
    I found it a lot easier just to take out the lower ball joint and do it the normal way. It came out easy and nothing broke

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      #3
      I recently did my drivers side axle with a new GCK one, I personally did not remove the rotor, and found the 2/3claw clamp was only needed for the lower ball joint, trust me you need a 2 claw for that 3 will NOT work.
      Accord, the next best thing to WoW!
      Got Goat?
      Dear maximonline.com,
      found porn:
      Wikkedv16
      "my sister has one of their mufflers.. pretty nice quality muff..
      hasnt dulled down.. no rust.."
      Screw Toby! http://www.savetoby.com

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        #4
        good to know, its not my DIY tho =)

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          #5
          How exactly do you use a hammer/bottle jack to separate the ball joint. I'm having a problem removing mine. Doesn't want to budge.

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            #6
            I had trouble with mine also, than I went and broke out my rivet gun put my aluminum slug hammer bit and got it out in less than 5 minutes, other than that the haynes showed using a 2 claw clamp and press it out.
            Accord, the next best thing to WoW!
            Got Goat?
            Dear maximonline.com,
            found porn:
            Wikkedv16
            "my sister has one of their mufflers.. pretty nice quality muff..
            hasnt dulled down.. no rust.."
            Screw Toby! http://www.savetoby.com

            Comment


              #7
              sorry to bring this back up, but i couldnt get that lower ball joint out. u guys say to get a 2 claw clamp? cuz the pickle fork shaped thing didnt work and all this grease started to ooze out of the ball joint.

              but my cv boot is ripped all the way around now and i broke a torque wrench.

              not sure if i want to spend 100 bux for the shop to do one side...
              I <3 G60.

              0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

              Comment


                #8
                ya man... get the 2 claw puller that the books says to get.. it costs about 35 or 39 dollars at AutoZone. Takes some tme to adjust it on the bottom of the balljoint bolt but it works.. You tighten it and it will pop out. Hope that helps
                JDMish R34-ed cb7 - SOLD!!
                Integra GS-R -

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                  #9
                  jus another quik question. my drivers side axle isnt connected to the tranny but connect to another rod/shft? half shaft? but it should still just pop off with a pry bar?
                  I <3 G60.

                  0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 92accordcoupe
                    How exactly do you use a hammer/bottle jack to separate the ball joint. I'm having a problem removing mine. Doesn't want to budge.
                    It's always much easier when you use the right tool. It's called a Pitman puller. All of $7 at your local Harbor Freight, or you can order it online -

                    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36861

                    I've been using one of these for years on all my Hondas. The only bad thing that can happen is if the joint is REALLY stuck tight, you can crush the end of the bolt b/c the hole through it for the cotter pin makes it a little weak. So, just back off the fixing nut about 3-4 turns and break the joint loose with the nut around the cotter pin hole to reinforce it. It will take about 30-45 seconds to release that ball joint with the Pitman puller - I promise.

                    wed3k, yes, you only need a prybar to release the driver's side outer axle from the halfshaft. Sometimes it's really easy, sometimes it takes a little effort or even a prybar and a sledgehammer.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by CB9
                      I've been using one of these for years on all my Hondas. The only bad thing that can happen is if the joint is REALLY stuck tight, you can crush the end of the bolt b/c the hole through it for the cotter pin makes it a little weak. So, just back off the fixing nut about 3-4 turns and break the joint loose with the nut around the cotter pin hole to reinforce it. It will take about 30-45 seconds to release that ball joint with the Pitman puller - I promise.

                      yea, when i was using the 2 jaw pulley, the end was pointed and started driving into the bolt and i dont think i can put my cotter pin all the way now.
                      I <3 G60.

                      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by wed3k
                        yea, when i was using the 2 jaw pulley, the end was pointed and started driving into the bolt and i dont think i can put my cotter pin all the way now.
                        Well that's not really a big problem - you could just use loctite blue to keep it in place if you can't use the cotter pin. The major problem is that if you crush the tip of the ball joint bad enough, the nut won't even go back on, so at that point you need to cut off the damaged area with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel to get to good threading again.

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                          #13
                          i actually found a way to remove the lower ball joint w/o any special tools, ill post a pic sooin..
                          I <3 G60.

                          0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            check it out
                            I <3 G60.

                            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              awesome awesome, i will be attempting this very soon when i get my full suspension and aftermarket axels..woot hope it goes as smooth as it seems, doubt it, but let the fun begin soon enough...hehe.

                              ^sold

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