Iab voltage / solenoid check

[Ghetto_CB7]

Hello all,

I have been running the h22a now for a few weeks without the butterflies hooked up to vacuum (always open) and was expecting my new air box (broke a nipple on the other one) early this week. Well it never came so I called majestic and it turns out they are on back order and it will be a few weeks.

At this point I said ok well I have an old vacuum box from the f22 and what the hell. So I hooked everything up turned the car on looked under the hood and... Nothing.

So I double checked that the vacuum lines were run correctly and they are. So I got out the trusty multimeter and checked the voltage at the solenoid plug. I got a voltage of 4.9 something. So I figured it was getting supplied correctly. So took the resistance of the solenoid and got like 29. something (don't remember exactly but something like that). So at this point I am going well what the hell.

If I run the butterflies directly to vacuum they close, so the diaphragm is ok. I am getting vacuum to the solenoid, but it is not opening when the 5 volts is being sent to it. I have also used another solenoid and same thing.

I have verified that it is hooked up to pin A17 and that it is connected to an ignition source.

Help! I am almost out of ideas here guys.

If someone out there would be kind enough to measure the voltage between the two wires going to their working IAB solenoid I would greatly appreciate it. Anything you can think of would be nice too.

Thanks.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Gsr iab volatage

I found a thread about the GSR iab solenoid voltage and apparently theirs is 12 volts, so I will try to figure that out tomorrow.

I will measrue voltage from my ignition source to ground, then from pin a17 to ground and see whats up.

Hope I just did something stupid.

[Ghetto_CB7]

12 ignition

I switched to a 12V ignition and I have the same problem I am going to a junk yard tonight to see if I can find another solenoid.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Still Failure

Well I am still having no luck on this guys. So if anyone would be kind enough to verify a few things for me that would be great.

1) ignition is the top pin (one closest to the press down clip)

2) pin a17 is the lower pin (obviously easy if you did # 1)

3) voltage from ignition wire while in accessory is 12.xx volts

4) voltage from ignition wire while car is on is 14.xx volts

6) voltage from pin a17 while car is on is 0.xx volts

7) voltage between top and bottom pin is 12.xx while acc // 14.xx while on

8) resistance across the solenoid terminal is about 28 Ohms

I know this thing is a pain in the ass to get to, but I have completely run out of ideas. If anyone is getting under there any time soon and you see this please feel free to bust out a multimeter and check some of those.

Thanks in advance.

Ghetto

[GearBangnAccord]

Well I am still having no luck on this guys. So if anyone would be kind enough to verify a few things for me that would be great.

1) ignition is the top pin (one closest to the press down clip)

2) pin a17 is the lower pin (obviously easy if you did # 1)

3) voltage from ignition wire while in accessory is 12.xx volts

4) voltage from ignition wire while car is on is 14.xx volts

6) voltage from pin a17 while car is on is 0.xx volts

7) voltage between top and bottom pin is 12.xx while acc // 14.xx while on

8) resistance across the solenoid terminal is about 28 Ohms

I know this thing is a pain in the ass to get to, but I have completely run out of ideas. If anyone is getting under there any time soon and you see this please feel free to bust out a multimeter and check some of those.

Thanks in advance.

Ghetto

chuck that boxx in the dumpster run via vacuum it works ezier

[Ghetto_CB7]

Vacuum

I am not sure that you get any benefit to running the Iab via vacuum, at least in a WOT situation. From what I have seen even at low rpm at WOT the butterflies open leaving me in the stat I am at now. I have hooked them up to vacuum, but only saw slight gains at part throttle and none at WOT.

If you pop your hood and rev your car via the throttle cable and watch your IAB spring, almost as soon as you hit WOT they are open.

I have obviously not tried this with the engine under a load, like on a dyno or something but I think the same thing would happen.

But if anyone has an extra solenoid I think I need one...

[lucid]

I love keeping the IAB system for a daily driver- it keeps throttle response and torque in the low end where I drive until I want to race. So I support your choice to keep them, you don't have to compromise. If you're not using IABs, you may as well remove or gut the plate, BTW.

I had a bad solenoid on my JDM H22A, so I used an H23 one. I think all the F & H ones are the same. I will try to find the diagrams I made to check the pin locations, but it looks like everything is pointing to a bad solenoid. You do have vacuum lines right and the 1-way valve in place, I'm assuming.

There is a similar box and solenoid on the car that you don't need- it is mounted to a bracket above the transmission mount. I swear it looks like you could use that- and keeping it there would make working on the damn thing a lot easier to get to. Can you use that box, or maybe steal the solenoid from it...
other than that, I'd go to a junkyard and try to get one from any H22 or H23 prelude.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Air box

Yes the air intake vacuum box an solenoid. I do not know if it works or not, mine does not. I am still thinking it is me doing something stupid considering I have tried 3 different solenoids (1 from the h22a, 1 from an f22a6, and then the one attacked to the intake box by the transmission) I should point out that the one near the transmission and the ones from the IAB box are different solenoids so I am not counting that one as a valid test.

I am just confused as to what else I am doing wrong lol. If you guys remember if it is a 12V ignition or a 5V ecu signal that goes to the black and yellow. Please let me know.

Anything else would help too. LOL I can't believe this little system is so hard to get to work well for me at least.

[lucid]

I wire them from scratch and will help you figure this out, but it will take many words to go over everything.

Facts: 12 volt system
power from black/yellow of engine harness
pink wire to ECU, ecu switches ground on at start, allowing engine vacuum to hold things closed, releases at 4800rpm (even at 0mph)

I will get you some info... In the meantime, you should check to see that you are getting 12 volts and a ground thru the ECU with the key on. It does seem odd that you would have a bunch of busted solenoids.

Did your car come with IABs or did you add the entire system?

[Ghetto_CB7]

Ok

I have it hooked up to ignition directly from dizzy right now. and it measures 12V in acc and 14 when car is running. That is the top pin on the connector. I have pin A17 going to bottom pin. and measured 0V on it below 4400 rpm.

I am getting vacuum to the solenoid so that would mean that the one way valve is working properly. I can pop the cap off of the solenoid and there no is blow by out the top or upper nipple (from the lower input) and it never switches from open to closed.

From the upper nipple I get blow by out the top of the solenoid.

If I remember correctly that is what mine does.

Car came with them, but I broke the box the second time I installed the engine (I forgot to take it out)

So I got a new box and I figured I busted the solenoid then as well. So I got one off of an f22a6

The diaphragm works, I know this because I have hooked it up to vacuum and it does close the butterflies.

I too wired mine from scratch.

Upper is the one closest to the push release
Upper plug wire: (12V ignition
Lower Plug wire: (Pin A17 from ecu
vacuum lines
Intake manifold:---> Box input
Box:---> lower solenoid
Upper solenoid:---Diaphragm

[lucid]

can you check from the 12volt side, thru the pink wire as ground?
A test light across the connector would be great here, I'm trying to make sure the ECU switch and wire are working and connected.
The other way is to temporarily ground the pink wire on the chassis after the solenoid. This cuts the ECU out of the equation. You should be able to (at idle) ground the pink wire and watch the diaphragm at the IAB plate move, take it off and watch it open.

I don't have my wiring diagrams here, they're at the garage, but I have the pin locations there.

[lucid]

I just remembered I've got my VTEC prelude engine harness right here....

12V power IS on clip side.

Here's the vacuum hose routing diagram:

[Ghetto_CB7]

Solenoid works...

Ok so I have been busy, but I did get some more checked.

I ran the 12v through the solenoid, then the other side to just ground and it clicks.

So I rewired the pin from a17 and I still get nothing. My next step is finding someone who has a functioning p13 and swap it out to see if it is the computer.

It is times like this that I wish more people on this site lived near Boise.

Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully If it is the ecu HMO will send me a new one.

[9tAkord]

Wire one to A17 and the other one tap it on A25 and see if it works.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Jumper

I have verified that the positive side works. It is the ground side (a17) that does not function correctly.