This is the way my friends and I have learned to upgrade stock, and fix broken
mounts. I'm sure some of you have seen this before, but I've never seen it
here on CB7tuner, and we can all use a good cheap fix. This is a cheaper diy
alternative to buying poly inserts.
I purchased new OEM type engine mounts to install when I swapped engines.
Recently I noticed the front mount was broken after only about 5,000 miles of
use. Apparently stock mounts do not like the engine to rip from 45mph in 5th
to 45mph in 2nd, oops!
My front engine (torque) mount had a cracked rubber bushing, AND the metal
part had become bent out of alignment. That is why this DIY is split into two
parts. The first part is filling the rubber bushing with polyurethane to make
it solid. The second part is straightening a bent mount and fixing the
problems that result from bending.
Part I: Polyurethane
Here are the installed before & after pics of the front mount:
These are the tools, minus the duct tape:
Not pictured is the dishsoap and toothbrush I used to clean the rubber, a
plastic knife or card, and the option of a heat gun to speed up the drying
process of the polyurethane.
1. Use the square drive tools pictured above (3/8" drive is fine too) to remove
the front engine mount. I used the 3" extension to reach the top bolt, and the
6" extension to reach the lower one. To loosen the lower bolt, I slipped the
large socket with extension over the ratchet handle to basically lengthen it,
since the breaker bar did not have enough room to work. I was able to get the
mount off without removing any other parts.
This is a tube of 3m "windo-weld" I bought for about $16, and is good for 2-4
mounts:
2. Clean the mount and let it dry so the polyurethane gets a good chance to
stick.
3. Use the urethane and caulk gun to fill the bushing's open areas, starting
from the middle out on each side.
4. Smooth out the filled area (if desired) with a plastic knife, gloved finger,
etc.
5. Let the mount dry for at least a day. I dried mine for about 27 hours
before installing it. During the second half of that time, I used the heat gun
intermittently at about 400 degrees to heat the metal part of the bushing until
it was too hot to hold, helping the urethane cure. It should look something
like this:
6. Reinstall the mount securely once the bushing is fully firm.
Here is mine back in place and ready for more H22 Abuse:
mounts. I'm sure some of you have seen this before, but I've never seen it
here on CB7tuner, and we can all use a good cheap fix. This is a cheaper diy
alternative to buying poly inserts.
I purchased new OEM type engine mounts to install when I swapped engines.
Recently I noticed the front mount was broken after only about 5,000 miles of
use. Apparently stock mounts do not like the engine to rip from 45mph in 5th
to 45mph in 2nd, oops!
My front engine (torque) mount had a cracked rubber bushing, AND the metal
part had become bent out of alignment. That is why this DIY is split into two
parts. The first part is filling the rubber bushing with polyurethane to make
it solid. The second part is straightening a bent mount and fixing the
problems that result from bending.
Part I: Polyurethane
Here are the installed before & after pics of the front mount:
These are the tools, minus the duct tape:
Not pictured is the dishsoap and toothbrush I used to clean the rubber, a
plastic knife or card, and the option of a heat gun to speed up the drying
process of the polyurethane.
1. Use the square drive tools pictured above (3/8" drive is fine too) to remove
the front engine mount. I used the 3" extension to reach the top bolt, and the
6" extension to reach the lower one. To loosen the lower bolt, I slipped the
large socket with extension over the ratchet handle to basically lengthen it,
since the breaker bar did not have enough room to work. I was able to get the
mount off without removing any other parts.
This is a tube of 3m "windo-weld" I bought for about $16, and is good for 2-4
mounts:
2. Clean the mount and let it dry so the polyurethane gets a good chance to
stick.
3. Use the urethane and caulk gun to fill the bushing's open areas, starting
from the middle out on each side.
4. Smooth out the filled area (if desired) with a plastic knife, gloved finger,
etc.
5. Let the mount dry for at least a day. I dried mine for about 27 hours
before installing it. During the second half of that time, I used the heat gun
intermittently at about 400 degrees to heat the metal part of the bushing until
it was too hot to hold, helping the urethane cure. It should look something
like this:
6. Reinstall the mount securely once the bushing is fully firm.
Here is mine back in place and ready for more H22 Abuse:
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