F22B/H23 head vs F22A?

[CB7Xhris]

There should be something in the DIY section. You will need the EX ECU and a pin out to connect to the IM if you don't have an EX/SE from what I remember. But even on my EX I felt huge butt dyno gains from just swapping the plenum.

Well I bought the H23 plenum. The write up is alittle hard to follow for me without the photos (call it a learning disability lol). By putting the plenum on the a6 runners, you dont have to use the butterflys right?

[Jarrett]

You should still use the butterflies (called IABs for Idle Air Bypass valves). You already have the electronic hardware in place if you have an F22A6.

It will give you more plenum volume, and give you the flexibility to eliminate a couple of things like the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve) and ABV (Air Boost Valve).

The H23A1/H22A plenum puts the ABV that was originally on the side of the manifold in the place where the FITV was previously. The FITV is then moved to the bottom of the throttle body. The throttle body of the F22A doesot share the same pattern as the H23A1/H22A, so a matching one must be sourced when doing this mod. Luckily, it's the same pattern as every F/H-series engine after the CB, as well as the B/D-series engines. The early Accord F-series engines seem to be the oddball bolt pattern. One can source a new aftermarket throttle body that has coolant ports through the bottom of the throttle body as a means of eliminating the FITV, or one can source an OEM throttle body that has the FITV attached and plumb it just like factory. Just make sure your plenum opening and throttle body closely match.

Also, the JDM intake manifolds had block-off plates for the ABV. You can buy one of those, or you can buy an aftermarket billet part. There's also the option of leaving it alone like it was intended.

Hope that clears things up.

[gloryaccordy]

I feel like a side by side picture would be clearer lol.

[CB7Xhris]

I feel like a side by side picture would be clearer lol.

lol